How to turn a PVC boat without a transom

The fishing or waterwalk season is over, and every inflatable vessel owner is faced with the issue of conservation, which is especially important for lightweight model owners who do not have a rigid transomb board, because their design requires a special approach to packaging. Improper stowage can lead to the formation of persistent crevices on the material, which will significantly reduce the life of your boat.

Many beginners make the mistake of simply crumpling the cylinders and stuffing them into a bag, ignoring the importance of sequence. In this article, we will detail an algorithm of actions that will allow you to pack compactly and safely. flyboatpreserving the geometry of the seams and the integrity of the fabric.

Well-prepared storage is not just a matter of transportation, but also a matter of safety for future waterways, and let's look at the key steps that will transform this process from a routine to a well-established procedure.

Preparation of the boat for packaging and drying

The first and perhaps most critical step is to remove moisture completely from the surface of the material. Even a small amount of water left in the folds of the fabric, during prolonged storage, can provoke the development of mold or the appearance of an unpleasant musty smell. Before starting to fold, be sure to wipe all cylinders and the bottom with dry rags, paying special attention to the inner corners and joints.

If you keep the boat in an unheated room, the residual humidity becomes the main enemy of PVC. Wet cloth in the cold can become brittle, and then inflated in these places often form microcracks. prerequisite long-term elasticity of the material.

Special attention should be paid to the bottom. In models without a transom, high-pressure inflatable floor (HPD) or aluminum profile slate is often used. If you have NDNDM, it should be completely dry, as moisture inside the valve can freeze or corrosion metal elements inside the structure.

• 🌊 Carefully wipe all surfaces with a dry microfiber cloth, without leaving stains.
• 🌬️ Allow the boat to lie in the air in the shade for at least 30-40 minutes after active operation.
• 🧼 Use a mild soapy to remove silt if necessary, but flush it off especially carefully.

⚠️ Warning: Never dry a PVC boat in direct scorching sunlight on a hot day. Ultraviolets combined with high heat can damage the top protective layer of fabric, making it sticky or changing color.

Once the outer surface is ready, check the valves, make sure they do not get dust or sand that may interfere with the leakage on the next use, wipe the area around the valve and make sure the closing mechanism is functioning correctly.

Dismantling of removable elements and accessories

Before you start blowing cylinders, you need to remove all the rigid elements of the structure. In boats without transom, the role of the rigid back is often performed by removable seats (banks) and bottom reinforcement elements, their removal allows the cylinders to compress evenly, without distortion.

Remove it first. aluminum Or plywood sheets that form a hard bottom, fold them carefully with a pile, making sure there is no sand or stone between the elements, and even a small grain of sand sandwiched between the profiles can scratch the lacquer coating when rubbed, or damage the fabric of the bottom of the boat when assembled.

Then there's the seat line, and depending on the model, they can be attached to belts, carabiners, or just fit into pockets on the sides, and carefully unfasten the mounts, trying not to pull the fabric sharply, so as not to damage the mounting of the rings or handles.

Remember to remove the fun stops (switches) if they are removable, and various holders for spinning or sonar. All the small parts are better immediately put in a separate bag, so that they do not get lost in the bowels of the packaging bag. Losing even one small screw or carbine can create problems in the next assembly on shore.

• 🪑 Remove all removable seats and fold them separately, checking the integrity of the anchorages.
• 📏 Remove the hard bottom elements (sleigh), clearing them of contaminants.
• ⚓ Remove the keys, tackle holders and other attachments.

A forgotten knife or tool left inside can cause a serious cut.

Technology of proper deflating of cylinders

The deflation process is not just about opening the valve. fold It's compact, it doesn't have to be coarse, it's got to be controlled, and if you just open the valve, the air will come out quickly, but the fabric will question itself chaotically, creating lots of unnecessary clamps.

It is recommended to use a controlled extrusion method. Start at the nose, gradually moving to the stern. Press on the cylinders with a flat palm or kneel (the shoes should be removed!), evenly expelling air to the valve. This allows the tissue to lie down in layers rather than clumping.

For models with high-pressure inflatable floor (HPD), the process is similar, but requires more care. The bottom of such boats has an internal structure of thousands of threads, and a sharp crumpling under pressure can damage these bonds. Blow the BND slowly, making sure that the valve does not go inside the cylinder.

When the bulk of the air is removed, you can open the valve completely and let the residues in. At this point, it's important to make sure that the open valve doesn't get dirt from the ground or grass. Some models have special valve covers -- use them.

⚠️ Note: Do not use vacuum cleaners or compressors to pump air out of the PVC boat. Reverse traction can damage the petal valve or deform the internal partitions of cylinders.

After a full blow, walk your hand over the surface of the cylinders, smoothing out large folds. Your goal is to get the most flat "pancake" of fabric that will be easy to roll into a smooth roll, which is especially important for transom-free boats, where the sides do not have rigid support and can be wrinkled arbitrarily.

Algorithm of folding a boat without a transom

Now that the boat is deflated and devoid of rigid elements, the basic stage begins - the formation of the transport size. The models without a transom are characterized by the absence of a rigid rear wall, which makes the sides more mobile. This requires a certain sequence of actions to obtain a neat roll.

First, fold the boat along the central axis, combine the right and left sides so that they lie flat on top of each other, if the boat has a keel (inflatable arrow), it should be inside the fold. Carefully smooth the fabric, driving the residue of air from under the layers.

Then you start to twist, and you'll start with the bow, and you'll gradually wrap the boat in a tight roll towards the stern, and you'll try to apply the same tension every time you turn, so that the roll is cylindrical, not conical, and that will ensure that the pressure is distributed evenly.

Curtailment phase	Action.	Important detail
1. Longitudinal addition	Combination of sides along the keel	Make sure the keel is straight in the center.
2. Extraction of air	Surface ironing	Remove air pockets between layers
3. Twisting	Formation of a nose roll	Keep the edges straight, avoid distortion
4. Fixation	Belt anchorage	Do not overstretch your belts too much

During the twisting process, make sure that foreign objects or parts of clothing are not wrapped with the boat. The roll must be tight, but not stretched to the state of stone. Excessive pressure on the folds at one point can lead to deformation of the seams during storage.

The nuances of winding up in winter

In the cold season, the PVC material becomes less elastic. You need to turn the boat down in the winter with extreme caution, avoiding sharp bends at an angle of 90 degrees or less. It is better to give the boat a little rest and straighten before the final twist, even if it takes an extra 5 minutes.

When the roll is formed, it needs to be fixed. The boat usually comes with fastener slings. Fasten them, but don't put too much effort into it. The slings are designed to prevent spontaneous unfolding, not flattening the boat.

Packing in bag and storage

The final step is to place the rolled-up boat in the transport bag, and because there's no trawler board, the weight of the boat is evenly distributed, which makes it easier, but it's important to place the roll inside properly so that nothing dangles.

Place the rolled-up boat in a bag so that the valves are in an accessible place or protected from the pressure of other objects. Next to the boat, put previously extracted hard elements (sleigh, seats). Ideally, if the bag has separate pockets for small parts, which will prevent them from contacting the fabric of the cylinders.

Store the assembled boat should be in a dry room at the temperature recommended by the manufacturer (usually from -20 to +40 degrees, but room temperature is optimal).

• 🎒 Place the roll in the bag, spreading the fabric on the bottom of the bag.
• 🧱 Place the hard elements (sleigh) so that they do not press with sharp corners on the cylinders.
• 🔒 zip the bag, making sure the fabric does not hit the lock.

If you plan to keep it for long periods (e.g., all winter), it is recommended to check the condition of the boat every few months, and you can inflate it briefly to straighten the folds and check the pressure, which will prolong the life of the material.

Common mistakes in the packaging of boats

Even experienced owners sometimes make mistakes that can cost expensive repairs. Understanding these nuances will help you avoid common problems and save your life. fly-boat It has been in perfect condition for many years.

One of the biggest mistakes is to pack a wet or dirty boat, and the moisture left over is to ensure that the fungus that eats away at the inside of the fabric, and the dirt acts like an abrasive, erasing the protective layer every time the fabric is folded and unbended during storage.

The second common mistake is to be too hard on twisting, and people try to shove a boat into a smaller bag using force, and this creates a critical strain in the seams and in the folds, and PVC has a limit on elasticity, and exceeding it leads to micro-ruptures.

⚠️ Warning: Do not keep the boat assembled under heavy objects. Pressure from above can deform cylinders and disrupt bottom geometry, especially in models with NDNDM.

Also worth mentioning is the storage error near chemicals, solvents or gasoline, which can negatively affect adhesives and the PVC material itself, making it brittle or sticky, and the boat should lie separate from fuel canisters or garden chemicals.

Compliance with these simple but important rules will allow your boat to serve faithfully for years to come. The right packaging is an investment in the safety and comfort of your future fishermen.

Questions and Answers (FAQ)

Can I keep a rolled-up boat in the trunk of a car?

Short-term storage is possible, but it is not recommended to do this on a regular basis. In the trunk, there may be temperature changes, moisture, and there may be fumes of fuel. For long-term storage, it is better to use a dry room with room temperature.

Do I need to completely blow the boat away before storage?

Yes, for long-term storage, the boat needs to be blown away completely, which reduces the load on the seams and allows the product to be compactly packed, but if the boat is kept inflated indoors, the pressure in the cylinders should be reduced to a minimum of working pressure to compensate for the temperature changes.

How often should the valves be lubricated?

The valves themselves are not normally lubricated with special formulations if they are in good working order, but the key is to keep them clean, but rubber seals can be wiped with silicone lubrication once a season to maintain elasticity, especially before winter storage.

What to do if the boat is still wet?

If you find yourself packing a wet boat, you need to immediately take it out, inflate it completely and dry it in a warm room (not the battery!) Only after drying it completely can you blow it back and pack it again, and ignoring this will lead to mold and unpleasant odors that are difficult to get rid of.