How to disassemble the refrigerator engine: full instructions

Repairing appliances often begins with a thorough diagnosis, and in the case of refrigerators, the compressor is the key. It is this unit that ensures the refrigerant circulates, creating the necessary temperature regime in the chambers. When the device stops cooling or makes uncharacteristic sounds, owners often wonder how to disassemble the refrigerator motor for inspection or replacement, a process that requires accuracy, since inside are high voltage electrical components and the system under pressure.

Before starting dismantling, you need to understand that the compressor is a sealed unit, and its "disassembly" in domestic conditions most often means disconnecting the external electrical elements and removing from the frame. The internal bulkhead of the sealed unit itself is impossible without professional equipment and skills of welding copper tubes. However, for primary diagnosis, checking the windings or replacing the starting relay, the complete dismantling of the external components is a mandatory step. Security - the first thing you need to take care of.

In this article, we will look at the sequence of actions, the necessary tools and technicalityYou'll learn how to remove the protective casing, unplug the wires, and prepare the unit for further manipulation.

Workplace preparation and tools

Any engineering work starts with preparation. To disassemble the compressor motor, you need a basic set of locksmiths. Don't try to do the work by eye or by hand, because it can damage the plastic mounts or insulate the wires. The basic requirement is that you have good lighting and free access to the back of the refrigerator.

You will need a set of screwdrivers (cross and flat), pliers, bogocreas, a multimeter to check electrical circuits and possibly a wrench to remove the frame fasteners. If you plan to replace the compressor completely, you will also need a copper tube soldering burner and a vacuum pump, but this is not required for the dismantling of the electrical part. Multimeter It is a critically important diagnostic tool.

⚠️ Attention! Before you start any work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power grid. Take the plug out of the socket. Working with electrical appliances under voltage is deadly.

Organize the space so that you have space to fold small parts. Screwers and washers are better folded in a separate container so that they do not get lost. It is also recommended to have a camera or smartphone at hand. Photographing the stages of dismantling will help you not confuse anything when you build it back, especially if you are doing it for the first time.

Dismantling of protective casing and access to nodes

Compressor in modern refrigerators, such as Indesit, Atlant or BekoIt's usually located at the bottom of the rear of the body, and it's covered with a metal or plastic casing that protects the machine from dust and accidental damage, and removing this casing is the first physical step to the motor, and the attachments can be different, like screws, latches, or a combination of these methods.

Carefully inspect the perimeter of the casing. If you see the screws, twist them out with a screwdriver. If there are no fasteners, it probably holds the lid on the latches. In this case, you need to press the latches slightly and remove the casing by moving up or sideways. Be careful, the plastic becomes brittle over time and can crack when a sharp jerk. Integrity The casing is important for noise insulation.

When you remove the lid, you'll see the compressor, the capacitor lattice (partially) and the mount relay, and at this point, it's important to not pull anything. Visually look at the condition of the wires, whether there's melted insulation, burn marks, or contact oxidation, and these signs can indicate the cause of the failure before you even start to make a deep diagnosis.

Removal of the launch relay and protective device

The start relay and the heat disengagement are the brain and the insurance of your compressor, and they're attached directly to the terminals of the motor windings, and to remove them, you first have to photograph the circuitry of the wires. crucialAs the entangled contacts can burn a new compressor or relay.

The dismantling process is as follows:

• 🔌 Carefully disconnect the connectors of the wires going to the relay, having previously memorized or photographed their location.
• 🛡️ Find a fixing element (metal brace or plastic clamp) that holds the relay on the compressor body.
• 🔧 Remove the lock and pull the relay along with the thermal fuse down, removing them from the compressor contact pins.

Often, you can find a capacitor inside the relay, and if it's swelling or it has traces of electrolyte leakage, it's a clear sign of malfunction. PTC When removing, act without any sudden movements to avoid damaging the ceramic posistor inside the plastic case.

⚠️ Attention! Contacts at the terminals of the compressor can be sharp. Work carefully so that you do not hurt or damage the copper tubes that fit the motor body.

Once you remove the relay, you'll have access to the three compressor pins that are located in the triangle, and these are the windings, and this is where you'll check the resistance, make sure that the contacts are not loaded, and if the relay is tight, you can sway it slightly from side to side, but don't put too much effort into it.

Checking of the electrical part and windings

Before you completely dismantle the motor from the frame, it makes sense to do a diagnostic, which will save time if it turns out that the problem is not in the compressor, but in the wiring or thermostat. To check, you use a multimeter switched to resistance measurement mode (Ohms). Normal resistance values depend on the model, but usually range from 10 to 30 Ohms.

The check is done between pairs of contacts, and you need to measure the resistance between:

• ⚡ Upper and left contact.
• ⚡ Upper and right contact.
• ⚡ Left and right contact.

The sum of the two lower resistances should be equal to the greatest (resistance between the extreme contacts). If the device shows one (infinity) - the break of the winding. If zero is a short circuit.

You also need to check the breakdown on the body. One multimeter probe pressed to any contact (cleaning a small place on the contact area if necessary), and the second to the copper tube of the compressor or its unpainted metal body. The device should show infinity. Any resistance value indicates a breakdown of the insulation, which makes the operation dangerous.

Table of typical winding resistances

The values may vary for different types of compressors. Usually the starting winding has more resistance than the working one. For exact data, see the datasheet for your engine model. For example, for the R600a, the values may be in the range of 12-18 ohms (working) and 25-35 ohms (starting).

Disconnection of copper tubes and dismantling from the frame

If the diagnostics show that the engine is malfunctioning or you are planning to replace it, the next step is to physically disconnect the compressor from the refrigeration system. tightness The tubes may have a pressure refrigerant, so you can't just snack on them.

The process of disconnecting the tubes requires caution:

1. Find the soldering places of copper tubes (suction and injection) on the connections of the compressor.
2. Use a chimney cutter or a nozzle to make a saw on the tube a few centimeters from the motor body.
3. Carefully break the tube. If there's Freon in the system, you'll hear the characteristic sound of gas coming out.

Once the tubes are disconnected, the compressor is only held on the fastening bolts to the refrigerator frame, usually four. Use a wrench or head to unscrew them. Hold the heavy motor with your hand so that it does not fall and damage the floor or your own tubes. The compressor weight can reach 10-12 kg.

Type of malfunction	Symptoms	Action
Breaking of the winding	The engine hums, but it doesn't start.	Compressor replacement
Short circuit.	Knocks the gun in the shield.	Compressor replacement
Break-through on the hull	It's electric when you touch it.	Urgent replacement, life-threatening
Relay malfunction	Clicks, the engine's not turning.	Replacement of the starting relay

Frequent errors and precautions

When disassembling the engine of the refrigerator, beginners often make mistakes that complicate further repairs. One of the most common is trying to open the compressor itself with a Bulgarian or a hacksaw. categoricallyThere are precision mechanisms inside, and the atmosphere can be inert, and once opened, the body is not sealed at home.

Another mistake is ignoring the capacitor in the starting relay, and even if the relay itself is a whole, the swelling capacitor will keep the motor from starting, and it is also common to forget to clear the contacts of oxides before installing new parts, and dirty contacts create additional resistance, leading to overheating.

⚠️ Attention! Never turn on the compressor if the suction tube is open and not connected to the system, which can lead to the sucking of moisture and dust into the mechanism, which will instantly disable it.

Be careful with wire insulation. When you reassemble, make sure that the wires do not touch the hot parts of the compressor or the sharp edges of the frame. Vibration when working can wipe the insulation, which will lead to short circuits. Use shrinkage or insulation to protect the connections.

Diagnostics and conclusions

Disassembling a refrigerator motor is a process that requires a systematic approach, and you've gone from removing the casing to diagnosing the windings to dismantling the knot, if the trigger relay was the cause of the failure, replacing it will solve the problem, and if the diagnostics reveal an interturn or break inside the motor, the only way out is to replace the compressor entirely.

Remember that after installing a new compressor, the system must be vacuumed and refrigerated strictly according to the norm indicated on the refrigerator label. Lack or excess of freon, as well as the presence of air in the system will lead to rapid breakage of the new expensive unit. Vacuumization removes moisture, which when frozen can clog the capillary tube.

If you're not confident in your abilities at soldering or refueling, it's best to stop at the diagnostic and master call stage, but the knowledge gained during dismantling will help you accurately describe the problem to a specialist and avoid imposing unnecessary services. A competent approach to repair prolongs the life of household appliances.

Can I repair the compressor without replacing it?

In the home, you can't repair the internal mechanism of the compressor, it's a sealed assembly that can't be maintained, and you can only repair the external parts, you can replace the relays, the filters, or the engine itself.

Why is the compressor hot to the touch?

In mode, the compressor heats up to 60-90 degrees Celsius. That's normal. However, if it's red-hot or it's smoke, it's a sign of overheating due to malfunction or lack of freon.

How do I know if the compressor has burned?

The main signs: the absence of cold, the characteristic smell of burning, knocking out traffic jams when turned on, the engine buzzes but does not start or starts for a couple of seconds and turns off.

Should I change the filter when replacing the engine?

When the engine burns, the system has acid and combustion products that the filter has to absorb, and the old filter is already saturated with moisture and will not be able to work efficiently.