How to fold a PVC boat: step-by-step instructions and secrets

The open water season has passed unnoticed, and every owner of an inflatable boat has an inevitable but important task: preservation for the winter. Many beginners mistakenly believe that the process of folding a boat is elemental: flushed air, crumpled into a lump and removed into the garage. folding up the PVC boatIt depends on the life of the body and its ability to keep the pressure on the next season.

Polyvinyl chloride is strong, but it tends to get tired when under the wrong loads, especially in places of folds and creases. If you ignore the basic rules of preparation, by spring you can detect microcracks on the bottom or leaky seams. In this article, we will discuss in detail the algorithm of actions that will preserve the geometry of your vessel and the nerve cells of the owner.

It's important to understand that rush is the enemy here, and it takes time, clean space, and temperature. flyboat It's going to survive dozens of seasons of active use without having to have expensive repairs, so let's figure out how to turn this routine into a quick and efficient procedure.

Preparation for dismantling and cleaning

Before deflating cylinders, you need to carefully prepare the work area. The ideal option is a smooth, cleaned of debris, branches and sharp stones, a patch of grass or a smooth floor in the garage. Any grain of sand or small pebble caught between the layers of PVC when folded can play the role of abrasive and damage the material during storage.

The first thing you need to do is to completely free the cockpit from foreign objects, including removable cans (seats) and flooring. floor (AirDeck), it should be detached from the valves, but not removed yet, so as not to damage the internal structure. Hard floorboard (aluminum or plywood) is carefully removed and wiped dry, as moisture between the floor elements can cause corrosion of the metal or rotting of the wood.

⚠️ Warning: Never try to fold a wet boat immediately after fishing without first drying. moisture left in the folds of the material will lead to mold and an unpleasant smell that is almost impossible to remove.

Wash the body thoroughly with clean water, removing silt, fish mucus and sand. Pay special attention to the transom and the places where the stringers are attached. Use a soft sponge and neutral detergents to clean; aggressive chemicals can destroy the protective layer. PVCAfter washing, allow the vessel to dry completely in the shade, as direct sunlight with prolonged exposure to the heated material can lead to its deformation.

Proper deflation of cylinders and valves

The process of removing air from cylinders requires a delicate approach. The main rule is never to use compressors to pump air, creating a vacuum, as this can damage the return valves or cause the internal partitions to collapse.

Start by opening all the valves. Modern models often use valves like this. Bravo or BostonMake sure the central part of the valve is raised (pumping mode) or fully twisted so that air escapes freely. Press the cylinders with your hands, starting from the stern and moving to the nose, expelling air to the open valve.

• 🌬️ Open all valves at the same time to ensure a uniform air output.
• 👣 Carefully step on the cylinders with your feet (in soft shoes without heels), starting from the nose.
• 🔄 Walk around the perimeter several times until the material becomes sluggish.
• 🚫 Do not use sharp objects to squeeze air from hard-to-reach places.

If your boat is installed lease Or extra inflatables (kil balloons), which you also need to pay attention to, and the keel balloon is the last thing to blow off because it gives the bottom a stiffness, and it's important not to twist the valves and not to let dirt get into them at that moment.

Dismantling of floor and interior elements

Once the cylinders have lost their elasticity, you can start removing the floor stiffness elements, which is critical to maintaining the geometry of the paioles. If you have an aluminum floor, make sure that all the stringers (longitudinal profiles) are disconnected or removed from the grooves.

Take the cans off and put them separately. If the boat is equipped with a high pressure inflatable floor (HPD), the process is simplified: you don't have to take out the heavy plates, you just have to detach it from the cylinders and deflate it. However, for classic hard bottom boats, the algorithm is more complicated.

Carefully fold the paiola plates. Plywood elements are better wiped with a dry cloth and let them "breathe" before packaging to eliminate the risk of fungus formation. Aluminum profiles check for the presence of burrs that can damage the fabric when stored.

In some models, you need to dismantle door-wheel Do it now while the boat is still straightened out and access to the fasteners is not limited to the folds of the material, and all the small parts (bolts, nuts, keys) should be folded in a separate bag so that they do not lose them by next season.

Folding technique: envelope method

There are many ways to fold a boat, but the most reliable and time-tested method is the "envelope" method, which avoids the formation of sharp halls in the same place, which is especially important for the development of a new model. reinforced PVCFirst, put the deflated sides inside the cockpit, spreading them as smoothly as possible.

Then wrap the nose towards the center, and then the aft, and you should have a neat oval or rectangle, depending on the model, and at this point it's important to make sure that the seams are flat, without putting too much stress on the gluing points.

Phase	Action.	nuance
1	Bending the sides inwards	Avoid heavy flexions at the valves
2	Nasal and feeding	centered relative to the middle
3	Roll-up	Start at any end, pressing tightly
4	Fixation	Use regular belts without pulling

Then start rolling the resulting structure into a tight roll, moving from one edge to the other. Try to keep the turns tight, but without fanaticism. Excessive force when twisting can damage the internal partitions of cylinders.

⚠️ Warning: Do not lock the rolled-up boat with regular belts too tight. When the temperature changes in the storage room, the air volume inside may change slightly, and excessive pressure of the belts will lead to deformation of the material.

If you have a boat with NDMA It folds differently: first, the sides roll, then the whole structure rolls down with the bottom, which takes less time, but requires more thorough drying before packaging.

Packaging and choice of storage location

Once the boat is rolled up, it needs to be placed in a transport bag. Make sure the bag is clean and dry. If you keep the boat in a garage or on the balcony, take care of protection from rodents who often gnaw PVC for heat or nesting material.

The optimal storage temperature for PVC products is between +5 and +25 degrees Celsius. Sharp temperature changes, direct sunlight and proximity to heating appliances are strongly discouraged. Ultraviolet breaks polymer bonds, making the material fragile.

• 🏠 Keep the boat in limbo or on a flat shelf, avoiding contact with a sharp tool.
• 🐀 Use rodent repellents in the storage area.
• ☀️ Avoid direct sunlight on a packed boat.
• 🌡️ Do not keep the boat near batteries or open fire sources.

It's also important to check if there's any moisture left in the bag, so if you feel damp, you'd better take out the boat and let it dry at room temperature. condensate Inside the bag is a silent killer of your property.

Can I keep the boat at sub-zero temperature?

Storage at temperatures up to -15°C is allowed, but the material becomes brittle and must be kept in a warm room for at least 24 hours before operation.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Even experienced owners sometimes make mistakes that shorten the life of the boat, one of the most common is keeping the boat deflated but not rolled up, just thrown by a pile in the corner, leading to chaotic creases and deformation.

Another mistake is the use of aggressive solvents for cleaning. Gasoline, acetone or chlorine-containing agents can dissolve the top layer of PVC or disrupt the adhesion of the seams. Use only specialized ones. PVC Or soap solution.

Don't ignore the need for regular inspection. Even in a canned state, you should visually assess the condition of the tissue once every couple of months, and if you notice that the material has become sticky or changed color, this is a signal that destructive processes are beginning.

Remember that getting ready for winter is an investment in the future emotions of fishing. The little things you spend your time on in the fall will save you from the frustrations and spending of spring.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Do I need to completely blow the boat away before storage?

Yes, the boat needs to be blown away completely, but without creating a vacuum, and the air that's left under pressure can expand and damage the seams when temperatures drop, or it can shrink, pulling moisture and dirt in.

Can I keep a PVC boat in the cold?

Short-term storage to -15...-20°C is acceptable, but not desirable. PVC becomes brittle at low temperatures. If the boat is frozen, do not try to bend or fold it, it can crack. It requires gradual defrosting.

How often should I repack my boat during the winter?

You don't have to repack the boat if it's properly folded, but it's recommended that you check the storage site every 1-2 months for moisture and rodents, and if the boat is hanging on hooks, you can slightly change the suspension point.

How to lubricate the valve before wintering?

It is best to use a special silicone lubricant for PVC products, which preserves the elasticity of rubber seals and prevents the movable parts of the valve from freezing or sticking.