Building a low-pressure inflatable boat (LDPB) is a process that seems trivial only at first glance. PVC boats mistakenly believe that it is enough to just pump the cylinders and throw the boat into the water, but it is the correct preparation. floor-floor Not only does it determine comfort, it also determines your safety on the water, and if the vessel is improperly assembled, it can deform the hull, leading to poor performance and even the risk of puncture of a sharp object on the wave.
Modern models from manufacturers like Badger, Solar. or Flagship They require careful sequence, and unlike plywood-bottomed boats, there are no rigid elements that need to be inserted according to the instructions. stringer And the shape of the balloons, which, when pumped, behave unpredictably if the technology is broken, and ignoring these nuances often causes the boat to topping up and scavenge on its course.
In this article, we will discuss the entire process in detail, from unpacking to descent, you will learn why you can not immediately pump the bottom to maximum pressure and how to install the right set. transaxialThis knowledge will save you time and nerves, and it will also extend the life of your boat, and let's start at the beginning, choosing the right place to build.
Selection of location and surface preparation
The first thing that beginners forget is the surface on which assembly takes place. Rough grass, rubble or red-hot asphalt are the worst enemies. PVC materialEven if the bottom of the boat is reinforced, an occasional pebble that gets under the tension of the balloon can cause micropuncture or scuffling, which eventually turns into a hole, the ideal option is a flat lawn, wooden flooring or a special protective mat, which often comes with expensive models.
Before you turn the boat around, make sure there are no sharp objects, no branches, no broken glass on the surface. Walk through the assembly site, sweep away the debris if possible. If you're on the shore of a reservoir, carefully inspect the area for shells or spines. polyvinyl chloride It is resistant to abrasion, but not to a point puncture under pressure.
β οΈ Warning: Never leave the assembled boat in direct sunlight for long periods of time unattended. The air inside the cylinders heats up and expands, which can lead to critical exposure. pressure and break the joints or the valves.
If you build a boat in the cold (temperature below +10Β°C), the material becomes stiff and less elastic. NDM It takes longer to work, and the risk of cloth cloth cloth cloths is much higher, so let the boat lie open for 10 to 15 minutes so that it can take ambient temperature before it starts pumping.
Unpacking and visual inspection
Once the seat is ready, carefully remove the boat from the bag. Don't pull it by the valves or the tethered rings, this can cause them to break away. Turn the boat around so that the bow and stern look to the sides, and the cylinders lie symmetrically. visualization damages sustained during transportation or storage.
Check the integrity of everyone. air-valveMake sure that the protective covers are removed and the valves themselves are in the closed position (usually you need to press and rotate the inside counterclockwise, although on different models). Badger or hunter If the valve is open, the boat will not hold air, and you will waste time.
Before first assembling a new boat, wipe all the valves with a dry cloth to prevent sand or dust from entering the mechanism, which can disrupt the tightness.
Pay attention to the condition of the seams and places of sticking rod-plateIf you notice adhesive detachment or bloating, you can't start operation, you need repairs, and you also need to check for all the components: oars, pumps, remixes, and even one part that's missing can disrupt your trip to the water.
Primary pumping of cylinders
The best way to start the pumping process is to start from the nose compartment, then move to the side cylinders and then to the stern at the end, which allows you to evenly distribute the tension of the tissue. Use a foot or electric pump, but make sure that the pressure does not exceed the manufacturer's recommended values (usually 0.2 atm for primary pumping). Excess pressure It's dangerous at this stage.
Pump the cylinders about 60-70% of their volume. Don't try to get stiff immediately. The fabric has to straighten out and the folds go away. If you're using an electric pump from a car's battery, take short pauses to keep the motor from overheating and to control the process. NDMA It is important that the cylinders simply take shape.
- π Pump the nose compartment until the shape is easily straightened.
- β Continue to walk on the left and right side cylinders.
- π£ Complete the primary pumping with the aft compartment where the motor will be installed.
After the initial pump, leave the boat to lie down for 10 to 20 minutes, and during that time, the material will stretch and the pressure inside will drop. It's a normal physical process. If you start setting the bottom right away or rocking it to the end, in half an hour the boat can hang and lose shape.
Formation and pumping of the bottom of the NDLD
The most important stage is working with float-bottomUnlike hard floorboard, here we're shaping the geometry of the shell with air, and after the cylinders have spread a little, you have to manually smooth the bottom, pulling it from the center to the sides, and this will help remove the large folds that, when pumped, can create stress points.
Start pumping sections of the bottom, usually divided into several compartments or a single chamber with partitions, bring the pressure to 0.8-1.0 atm (or according to the instructions to your model). Solar. or AquaThe bottom has to become hard like a drum, and it's the hardness of the bottom that gives the boat a hardness. gelling And resilience on the wave.
When you pump, you'll hear the characteristic crackling or clicking, which is the internal joints are straightening out. Don't worry, this is a normal situation. However, if the sound looks like a tissue tear, stop pumping immediately.
β οΈ Warning: It is strictly forbidden to exceed the pressure in the bottom above 1.2 atm, even if the pump allows. When you go out in the sun, the pressure will increase, and the bottom may burst, which will lead to a collapse of the water. irreversible deformation hull.
After pumping the bottom, check the sides again, they're probably softer, because the bottom has pulled back some of the volume and changed the geometry. Add air to the cylinders to the working pressure (usually 0.2-0.25 atm). Now the boat must keep its shape and not grind under the finger.
Installation of translance and power set
When the hull is formed, you need to install a transka board (transom board) in NDND boats, it is often inserted into special pockets or fixed by slings. Make sure that the transom is vertical and securely fixed. The skewed transmuner will cause the motor to pull the boat to the side, and at speed will occur. yaw on course.
If the design includes additional inflatable stiffness elements (such as an inflatable keel or side stringers), they need to be pumped now. The keel gives the boat stability and helps it go out more easily for glides. Pump it carefully, keeping track of symmetry.
βοΈ Ready to descend
Check the mounting. squirrelThey should sit tight and not hang around, if your model has the ability to set up. pole-transom For low-power engines, make sure it is fixed in its normal place, even if you do not plan to put the engine.
Final inspection and launch
Before you carry the boat to the water, do a final inspection, walk your hand through the seams, see if there are any grassy mowings that may have gotten inside when you assemble. floppy-fly The boat is ready to be transported to the water's edge.
When launching, try not to drag the boat over sand or rocks unless there is an urgent need for it, it is better to carry it in your hands or use a special cart. Dramatic lowering into the water from a height is also not recommended - it can damage the keelson or bottom.
| Element of the boat | Working pressure (atm) | Tool. | Cover time. |
|---|---|---|---|
| Balloons (Borta) | 0.20 - 0.25 | Foot/Electric | 15-20 minutes |
| BNDD | 0.80 - 1.00 | Foot/Electric | 10-15 minutes |
| Inflatable keel | 0.80 - 1.00 | Foot. | No exposure. |
| Skiing (optional) | 0.15 - 0.20 | Foot. | 5-10 minutes |
Now you can anchor, you can set up seats (banks) and get ready to go. A properly assembled NDND boat behaves on the water like a rigid hull, providing excellent visibility and comfort. The main advantage of the NDNDD over the floorboard is the lack of creaking and the ability to assemble the boat alone in 10-15 minutes without losing stiffness.
The correct pumping sequence (cylinders -> pause -> bottom -> finishing of the sides) guarantees the geometry of the body and safety on the water.
Typical errors in assembly
One of the most common mistakes is to try to speed things up, because owners start pumping the bottom to the maximum without letting the cylinders spread, and this causes the boat to look like a banana -- skewed and unstable, and the only way to fix this is by releasing all the pressure and starting the process anew.
Another mistake is ignoring the temperature regime. In the summer, in the heat, the pressure inside rises. If you pump the boat in the shade and then put it in the sun, the pressure can rise by 15-20%. Always leave a small supply or blow some air before going out into the open water.
What to do if the boat is βcruisingβ at speed?
If the boat is steering aside when planing, check the pressure symmetry in the sides and the correct installation of the transom. Often the problem is solved by rearranging the engine just to the left or right of the lower unit.
Don't forget. transport-beltIf you are carrying a boat assembled on the roof of the car, be sure to use special belts with soft linings. Conventional ropes can rub the fabric of cylinders at high speed.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How long does it take to complete the NDND boat assembly?
With experience and a good pump, the process takes 10 to 20 minutes, including time to "track" to straighten the material, set about 30 minutes from unpacking to full readiness.
Can I leave my boat in the sun?
Short-term, yes. Long-term exposure to direct lights without supervision is dangerous because of the pressure buildup. If you plan to fish in the heat, check the hardness of the cylinders periodically and blow the excess air if necessary.
How is the NDNDD different from the PDD?
NDND (low pressure inflatable floor) is lighter, quicker to assemble and has no creaking elements. The plywood bottom is tougher to the touch, but heavier, longer to collect and can creak when cruising. NDND is more comfortable for the legs and better extinguishes the shocks against the wave.
Should the valves be lubricated?
You don't usually need a special lubricant, you just need to keep them clean, and if the valve starts to poison the air, it needs to be twisted out, washed off the sand and rolled back, and you can use silicone lubricant for rubber seals, but not for the mechanism itself.
How to keep a boat after fishing?
The boat must be washed with fresh water, dried (at least superficially) and folded in a ventilated place. Stored in a wet state leads to mold and an unpleasant smell that is very difficult to remove from the water. PVC material.