Polyvinyl chloride inflatable boats have long since ceased to be just a means of crossing to the other shore and have become full-fledged floating platforms for serious anglers. However, the lack of a rigid hull creates certain difficulties in installing attachments, especially when it comes to precision electronics, such as: sounderUnlike metal or fiberglass boats, where the transom and the side are rigidly fixed, PVC requires a more delicate approach to the choice of attachment location and method of fixation.
The main problem that inflatable boat owners face is vibration and displacement of the sensor during movement, which leads to distortion of readings or complete loss of signal. In addition, the soft structure of the board does not allow you to simply screw the device with screws, as is done on jeeps. You will need to find a balance between the reliability of the fixation and the safety of the boat. In this article, we will discuss proven installation methods that will allow you to get a clear picture of the bottom even at full speed.
Selection of installation site and preparation of transom
The first step is always to determine the optimal location for the display and sensor. The display usually choose the bow of the cockpit or a special shelf to ensure that the screen is clearly visible and protected from splashes. The sensor requires more careful positioning, because it depends on the quality of the sonar. squirt-boardNot the PVC itself, but the hard element.
There are several popular placement schemes: attaching directly to the transom plate (if it protrudes below the bottom), using a remote bracket or fixing on a separate mini-transom that is attached to the sides. If you plan to use a boat with an electric motor that is attached to the nose, the sensor is often installed in the nose to avoid air bubbles from the propeller.
⚠️ Warning: Never glue the sonar sensor directly to the soft bottom of the PVC boat without a rigid base. Disformation of the material during movement and pressure changes will result in detachment and loss of signal.
When choosing a location, make sure that there are no obstacles in the sensor’s area of operation, such as stiffness ribs or oar mounting elements that can create turbulent flows. Also consider the length of the cable: it should allow you to move freely around the boat without straining to tear the contacts. Adjustable brackets are often used to fine-tune the depth of immersion, allowing you to change the angle of the emitter.
Required tools and materials
Before you start installing, you need to prepare the entire arsenal of tools so that the process does not interrupt the search for trifles. You will need not only standard screwdrivers and keys, but also specific materials for sealing and protecting the connections. Pay special attention to the quality of the fasteners: in conditions of constant humidity and vibration, ordinary metal quickly rusts, so the choice falls on the top of the equipment. stainless-steel Or brass.
You will need to:
- 🛠️ A set of screwdrivers (cross and flat) and wrenches for tightening fasteners.
- 🔧 A drill or screwdriver with a set of drills of different diameters for making holes in rigid elements.
- 🧴 Sealer on polyurethane or silicone basis for insulation of the cable entry points.
- 🧵 Screeds, tape and shrink tubes for the organization of wiring.
- 📏 Roulette and marker for accurate marking of anchorages.
It is worth mentioning the need to use sea-sealerIt is resistant to UV and salt water, and conventional plumbing silicate can quickly become unusable when exposed to sunlight, and it is also recommended to have a degreaser on hand to ensure maximum adhesion of the glue or sealant to the surface of the plastic or metal.
Use paint tape to temporarily fix the elements before drilling – this will help avoid errors in marking and protect the surface from scratches.
Methods of attachment of sounder sensor
There are several basic ways to fix the sensor, and the choice depends on the design of your boat and the type of transax. The most common option is to use an end-to-end mount through a rigid transom board, if any, and protrudes below the bottom level, in which case the sensor is screwed with bolts, and the passage points of the fastener are carefully sealed, which ensures maximum rigidity and stability of readings.
If the trawler board does not protrude or does not exist, the method of attachment to a removable bracket is used, such a bracket can be fixed on board with the help of rods or screwed to the transom pockets, in which case it is important that the bracket itself is made of a durable material that is not subject to corrosion, such as from aluminum-alloy Flexible plastic holders can vibrate, which will create noise on the screen of the device.
For boats without a hard transom, the method of "through" installation through a special liner or platform that is glued or screwed to PVC is often used. However, this method requires high skill and caution. The simpler option is to use a remote holder that is attached to the bank (seat) or board and lowers the sensor into the water to the desired depth.
☑️ Testing of sensor attachment
Cable laying and connection protection
The right cable laying is the key to the durability of your electronics. In an inflatable boat, the cable is constantly subjected to mechanical stress: it can be touched with a paddle, stepped on it or squeezed when assembling and disassembling the boat. So the basic principle is maximum stealth and protection. The cable is best carried around the inner perimeter of the cylinders, fixing it with special clips or Velcro straps so that it does not hang around freely.
In places of connection with the sensor and head device, be sure to use shrinkage Even if the connectors are marked IP67, constant contact with water and salt can lead to oxidation of the contacts. It is recommended to additionally lubricate the connectors with a special silicone lubricant for electric contacts. If the cable passes through the transom, the hole should be larger than the diameter of the cable, and the space filled with sealant, so that when the boat moves the cable does not rub on the edge.
To connect the power, use only high-quality wires with a cross section of at least 1 mm2 to avoid a voltage drop over long distances. All twists should be excluded; connections are performed by soldering or using reliable terminals. Power wiring is better to be carried out separately from signal cables to minimize interference.
| Type of connection | Protection material | Protection | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Scooper | Isolation | Low. | Not recommended, oxidized. |
| Pike. | Thermal shrink + glue | High. | The best option |
| Clembs. | Moisture-protective spray | Medium | Allowable for temporary solutions |
| Connectors | Silicone lubricant | High. | Mandatory for connectors |
Installation of the display and control unit
The sounder display should provide a comfortable view for the angler and protection from direct sunlight. Most often, the device is mounted on a nose jar or on a special shelf installed in the middle of the cockpit. To attach it, brackets with suction cups or screw clip are used. It is important that the mount is reliable and withstands shaking on the wave, otherwise an expensive gadget can fly overboard.
When you install it, make sure that the crane allows you to adjust the angle of the screen. The sun can interfere with the view, so the ability to change the angle is critical. Some anglers prefer hanging mounts that can be quickly removed and put into a backpack after fishing, which is important for the fisherman. flyboatwhich are often stored in a disassembled form.
⚠️ Warning: Do not leave the sounder display in direct sunlight for long periods when the boat is not in use, which can cause the array to burn out and the electronics to overheat.
If you use cartridge models or models with cards, make sure that access to the card slot is not blocked by mounting elements, also provide the ability to quickly turn off the power so that you do not pull the battery terminals every time, you can install an additional toggle switch "mass" or connector in an accessible place.
How to extend the life of a sonar battery?
Use lithium batteries instead of lead-acid batteries, which are easier and better to hold charge in the cold, and don't drain the battery to zero on the water, keep a 20% supply.
Setting and calibration after installation
Once all the elements are installed and securely secured, you need to make the initial adjustment of the device. Don't go to the depth immediately; start by checking in shallow water. Turn on the sonar and lower the sensor into the water. The screen should show a clear line of the bottom. If the image floats or disappears, check the reliability of the sensor attachment and the absence of air bubbles under its surface.
In the settings of the device, it is important to correctly set the sensitivity (sensitivityPVC boats, which are often used on rivers and lakes, do not require maximum scanning depth, so you can set an automatic mode or limit the range for more detailed drawing of the terrain, and calibrate the screen scrolling speed to match the actual speed of the boat.
Do a test swim at different speeds. Notice if you're getting stuck in the planing process. If you're going to break it at high speeds, maybe it's going to take air or go up too high, and you're going to need to adjust the depth of the emitter, and only after you've passed the test, you can consider the installation complete.
The quality of the sonar image is 90% dependent on the correct installation of the sensor and the absence of air bubbles, not on the price of the device itself.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can you stick a sonar sensor directly to the bottom of the boat from the inside?
This is theoretically possible for some skimmer-supported sonar models, but for PVC inflatable boats, it's a bad idea. The soft bottom will warp, creating an air gap between the sensor and the water, which will kill the signal, and you'll lose the ability to remove the sensor for maintenance.
What length of wire is usually enough for a PVC boat?
The standard cable length (usually 6-9 meters) is often enough for boats up to 4 meters long. Longer boats or with a specific battery arrangement may require elongation. Remember, you need to build the cable in compliance with the cross section to avoid losing power.
Do I need to take off the sensor for the winter?
Despite the stated frost resistance of the materials, prolonged storage at negative temperatures, especially with traces of moisture inside the mounts, can lead to microcracks in the sensor case or cable.
Does the material of the transom board affect the sounder?
The board material (wood, metal, plastic) has almost no effect on the operation of the ultrasonic sensor, if it is installed through the method from the outside. The main thing is to ensure close contact of water with the working surface of the emitter and the absence of air pockets.
What if the sounder shows "porridge" at speed?
This is a classic sign of cavitation or air capture, see if the sensor is too high, try lowering it deeper or changing the angle of inclination, and it can also be too sensitive to be adjusted.