Choosing the right fishing coil from a swimming boat is a very different thing from choosing a fishing gear for shore fishing, and it comes to the fore with very different criteria: reliability of the mechanism in constant contact with water, traction power to combat large prey in the current and ergonomics when working in the limited space of the cockpit. Incorrectly selected gear can spoil the pleasure of heading out on the water or, worse, cause damage to expensive equipment.
Unlike spinning fishing, where lightness and balance are important, the boat coil, whether trolling or sheer flare, experiences colossal static loads. Corrosion This is the main enemy, and the reliability of the friction brake is the key to preserving the trophy. In this article, we will discuss in detail the technical nuances that will help you assemble the perfect gear for the specific conditions of the reservoir.
The modern market offers many solutions, from classic “meat bags” to powerful marine multiples, and understanding the difference between them will avoid common mistakes. It is important to considerA budget model bought without considering the specifics of boat fishing often fails faster than an expensive specialized mechanism designed for extreme conditions.
Types of onboard fishing coils
The main division is by the type of fishing line, and for fishing from a boat, the most relevant multiplier and non-inertional models, each of which has its own strengths depending on the method of angling. Multiplier Traditionally considered the king of trolling due to its power and the ability to fine-tune the brake system.
Non-inertional coils, or "meat grinders," are also widely used, especially when combined with lightweight spinning for catching plumb or onto the track with small woblers, their main advantage is ease of use and speed of exhaustion of the fishing line at a high gear ratio, but they are less protected from moisture entering the mechanism and often have less resource when working with heavy lures.
It is worth mentioning separately. winchesThese are professional equipment that require a separate approach to installation and maintenance, and the choice between types should be based on the type of fish and the baits used.
- 🎣 Animators: Ideal for heavy baits and fight with large predatory fish, provide direct contact with the tackle.
- 🌀 Non-inertial: Good for lite fishing, require careful care of the roller of the forester.
- ⚓ Electric winches: Used for deep trolling, remove physical activity from the angler when sampling the tackle.
⚠️ Note: When using non-inertional coils on board, be sure to check the lubricant status in the logger roller after each release to the water, as salt water quickly washes out the factory lubricant.
Criteria for selecting gear ratio
The gear ratio is one of the key parameters that determine how many turns of the line the spoole will make in one turn of the handle. For trolling, where uniform wiring and pressure on the Wobler are important, low values are usually chosen, such as 4.1:1 or 5.0:1. These models provide high thrust, which is critical when catching fish against the current or wind.
For fishing in plumb or if necessary, quickly select a tackle after empty wiring requires high-speed models with a gear ratio of 6.0:1 and above, where the speed of sampling the line becomes a priority, allowing the angler to return the bait to the fishing point faster or quickly change the wiring horizon. Universal. The 5.5:1 model is a compromise solution.
When choosing, consider the quality of the gears inside the gearbox. Brass gears are more durable but heavier, whereas aluminum alloys are lighter but can wear out faster when overloaded. The right balance between speed and traction determines fishing comfort.
If you plan to catch mainly on deep-sea wobblers-downtrippers, choose coils with a low gear ratio (up to 4.5:1) to have a thrust reserve to overcome the resistance of water.
Materials of the housing and protection against water
The aggressive aquatic environment dictates its material requirements. Coil casings are made of various alloys, and the most common is an aluminum alloy with anti-corrosion coating. However, for permanent operation on a boat, especially in salt water, it is considered ideal option. graphite Composite materials that are completely inert to corrosion.
The most important element is the sealing system, and the presence of protected bearings. SSB The sealing system (Stainless Steel Ball) extends the life of the machine by many times, even if the coil does not sink completely, splashes and high humidity can penetrate into the gaps between parts.
Regular maintenance and use of special sprays to displace moisture after fishing is a mandatory procedure. Metal parts that are not coated with a protective layer rust first, blocking the friction.
| Materials | Corrosion resistance | Weight. | Strength |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aluminum alloy | Medium (requires coverage) | Medium. | High. |
| Graphite/Carbon | Tall (not rusting) | Low. | Medium |
| Magnesium alloy | Low (active corrosion) | Low. | High. |
| Stainless steel | Very high. | Highly | Very high. |
Friction brake and its setting
The friction is different from the shore fishing, and there is often a situation where the fish is dragging the line, and the angler must be able to instantly block the spoole or, conversely, smoothly give the line. Star drag (star) on the multiples allows you to adjust the tension directly during the catch, without taking your hands off the tackle.
For non-inertional coils, the size and location of the adjustment nut is important, it must be convenient for grabbing even with wet hands or gloves. The quality of the materials of the friction washers (carbon or felt) determines the smoothness of the course and resistance to overheating in prolonged resistance of the fish.
The brake should be adjusted to a specific line and the estimated size of the trophy. Too tight friction will lead to a break or breakage of the hook, and too weak will not allow you to detect the fish or its jerk at the side of the boat.
The secret of friction setting
The tension should be adjusted so that when the line is pulled, it starts to go down at a rate slightly less than the speed of the fish's jerk, and for verification, you can tie the line to the scales and pull, achieving a descent at 20-25% of the breaking load of the line.
Installation of the coil on board the boat
The right setup on the boat is key to successful fishing and safety. There are various ways of attaching, from simple holders in a glass to complex outriggers and downriggers, the main requirement is the reliability of the fastening when pitching and vibrating the engine.
When installing, you need to consider the angle of attack of the rod. For trolling, the rod must be fixed at an angle that ensures the optimal operation of the rod. adjustable-angle holders It allows you to adapt the gear to different conditions and baits.
Don't forget to organize the fishing line. There should be no loose loops on board that you can get entangled with your foot or your clothes, all the extra ends should be removed, and the coil itself should be protected from direct sunshine when not in use.
- 🔩 Bolt connection: The most reliable method for heavy coils and downriggers requires transom drilling.
- 🧲 Magnetic holders: Convenient for quick change of gear, but suitable only for light models.
- 🪑 Seat anchorage: Mobile version, allowing you to change the position of the angler, but less stable in a strong wave.
⚠️ Note: When drilling a transom to install holders, be sure to use a sealant for marine applications and treat the edges of the hole with an anti-corrosion compound to prevent rotting of the boat material.
☑️ Checking tackle readiness
Handbag maintenance and storage
Boat coils require more care than spinning coils. After each exit, especially in salt water, the mechanism must be rinsed with fresh water and wiped dry. Do not direct a strong jet of water directly to the joints of the hull, so as not to drive moisture inside.
Periodically, at least once a season, the coil should be disassembled to replace the lubricant. The old lubricant loses its properties, thickens or washes out, which leads to increased wear of the gears. For lubrication, use special compositions designed for fishing reels.
It is better to store the coils in the unlocked friction state so that the washers do not deform from constant compression. The ideal place is a dry box with silica gel, protected from direct sunlight, which can damage plastic elements and fade the line on the spoole.
Regular maintenance of the coil increases its service life by 2-3 times and ensures the absence of surprises during the catching of trophy fish.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can spinning coils be used for trolling?
Technically, you can, if they have enough thrust and reliability, but specialized trolling models have a stronger mechanism and a more reliable back-rotation stopper, which is critical for wiring.
Which fishing line is better to wind on a boat coil?
For trolling and deep-sea fishing, wicker cord is preferred because of its zero tensile capacity and high strength at a small diameter. Monolesque is used less often, mainly for certain types of plumb fishing or if necessary, cushioning jerks.
What if the coil rusted after the season?
Do not immediately try to twist the handle by force. Disassemble the outside, wash the mechanism with a solvent or a special liquid (for example, WD-40 for initial cleaning), remove the rust, grease abundantly and reassemble. In serious cases, a professional bulkhead will be required.
Should the friction be weakened during storage?
Yes, it is. Long-term exposure of friction washers in a compressed state leads to their deformation and loss of working properties, which will cause jerks when catching in the future.