Buying a rigid hull inflatable boat (RIB) is just the first step towards a full-fledged boat ready for serious waterfalls. Many beginners, when they get basic equipment, face the lack of a central control panel, which significantly limits navigation and comfort. RIB boat console It becomes the element that turns a simple inflatable board into a full-fledged boat with an ergonomic skipper’s workplace.

A well-organized workplace not only enhances the aesthetics of the vessel, but also directly affects the safety of driving, especially in the conditions of excitement or during long transitions. In this article, we will examine everything from the choice of material to the nuances of installation of electrical equipment, so you can build the perfect cockpit.

Why you need a center console on RIB

The main function of the central control post is to concentrate all the control and navigation devices at one point accessible to the helmsman. On boats without a console (with tiller control or a remote tiller), the captain is forced to either stand at the transom or reach through the entire cockpit, which may not be safe on the wave. steering On the console, you can take a more stable position and better control the situation.

In addition, the console serves as a reliable basis for mounting navigation electronics: sonars, cartplotters, radars and radio stations.

⚠️ Warning: Installing heavy equipment on a transom board without a central support can lead to transom deformation and disruption of the boat’s balance.

The presence of a protected space under the "torpedo" (front panel) allows you to carefully place batteryIt's critical to the longevity of the electrician, because sea salt and moisture are the main enemies of contact.

Ergonomics also plays a role: having a shelf for trifles, a cupholder and a place to attach your smartphone makes fishing or cruising much more comfortable. You will no longer look for where to put the sonar or keys while holding the rummel with one hand.

Manufacture materials: fiberglass, aluminum or plywood

The choice of material for the console is always a compromise between weight, durability and budget. There are three main options on the market, each with its own strengths and weaknesses. fiberglass (FRP).

Fiberglass consoles are very aerodynamic, because they are often streamlined, reduce wind resistance, are not corrosive, easy to wash, and can be painted in any color that harmonizes with the cylinders of the boat. However, it is worth considering that quality fiberglass is not cheap, and if hit hard it can crack, requiring repair.

Aluminum consoles are less common, usually as part of ready-made kits from boat manufacturers.

  • πŸ›‘οΈ High mechanical strength and resistance to impact.
  • βš–οΈ Minimum weight, which is important for boats with limited load capacity.
  • πŸ”§ The ability to independently refine and drill without the risk of splitting the material.

The third option is moisture-resistant plywood, followed by fiberglass pasting, which is a budget-friendly way to create any shape, but it requires serious skills and time.

πŸ“Š What material would you choose a console from?
Glass-plastic (factory)
Aluminum (light)
Plywood + Fiberglass (yourself)
Plastic (budget option)

When choosing, pay attention to the quality of the finishing. Cheap plastic can fade under ultraviolet light, and poorly processed aluminum can oxidize.

Design features and types of design

The design of the console affects not only the appearance, but also the functionality. There are several basic design types that are worth considering before buying.

A classic console with a windshield (or imitation) and a visor, which provides minimal protection for the skipper's face from headwinds and splashes at high speeds, often equipped with built-in instrument niches.

Open-type consoles ("torpedo") are a simple panel on legs.

⚠️ Warning: When installing the console, make sure that its width does not block access to cylinders and stringers, otherwise maintenance of the boat will become impossible.

An important element is steering-columnIt can be designed as a classic steering wheel (for larger RIBs) or be integrated into the hull with the possibility of installing remote control. For boats up to 4-5 meters long, the most commonly used is the option with an adapter under a remote rumble, as it is easier and cheaper to implement.

It is also worth paying attention to the presence of built-in glove-box It's convenient to fold documents, sunglasses, keys and small electronics, and the absence of such a compartment will make you look for space for things elsewhere, which is not always convenient.

Installation of steering and cables

Installation of the steering gear is the most technically difficult step in equipping the console. For RIBs, cable steering systems (for example, series of steering systems) are most often used. T71, T81 The length of the cable depends on the distance from the console to the transom.

The installation process requires care. The cable should not have sharp inflections, the bend radius should meet the manufacturer's recommendations (usually at least 200 mm).

β˜‘οΈ Verification of steering installation

Done: 0 / 5

First, you put the steering machine on the console bracket, and then you put the cable along the side, and you fix it with plastic clamps or clips, and it's important that you don't rub the cable against the inflatable tubes and the sharp edge elements.

At the transom, the cable connects to the motor bracket, and the accuracy of the adjustment is critical.

Adjustment procedure:

1. Relax the counternuts on the tip of the cable.

2. to set the engine strictly in the center (parallel to the DP of the boat).

Combine the marks on the steering machine (centre).

4. Tighten the counternuts by checking the move.

After assembly, you need to completely shift the steering wheel from side to side several times to make sure that there are no jammings and the mechanism is working correctly.

Installation of electrical equipment and navigation

The modern RBI is unimaginable without electronics, and the console takes on the role of a central switchboard. batteryIt is best placed in a special sealed box under the front panel of the console or in a separate handuk.

To connect the devices, an mounting panel is used, often complete with the console, or a homemade board made of textolite / plastic.

Dashboard. Consumption (A) Recommended wire cross-section Type of fuse
Echolotte/Cartplotter 0.5 - 1.0 1.5 mm2 3 A
Navigator (GPS) 0.3 - 0.5 1.0 mm2 2 A
Radio (VHF) 1.0 - 6.0 (for transmission) 2.5 mm2 10 A
Side lights 1.0 - 2.0 1.5 mm2 5 A

All joints must be made using shrink or soldered terminals, and twists in vibration and humidity are guaranteed oxidation and loss of contact through the season.

πŸ’‘

Use only copper multicore wires in double insulation. Aluminum wires on the boat are prohibited due to rapid oxidation and brittleness.

Remember to install the main mass switch ("switch"), which should be located in an easily accessible place, so that you can instantly turn off the entire system if necessary.

Additional tuning and accessories

Once you've installed the basic functionality, many owners are thinking about improving comfort, and the console provides a great platform for upgrades. windshieldEven a small visor significantly reduces fatigue when driving against the wind.

Also popular is the installation of USB sockets with moisture protection for charging gadgets.

The secret to quiet work

To reduce the vibration of the appliances, fasten them not directly to the plastic, but through rubber damper pads or use anti-vibration mounts designed for motorcycles.

Storage is another important aspect: you can attach fishing rod holders to the sidewalls of the console, and you can put a universal holder for a smartphone or GPS tracker on the top panel.

And you have to keep the safety in mind. reflector Or an additional running light on top of the console will make you more visible to other boats in the dark.

πŸ’‘

The main principle of tuning RIB: any additional equipment should be fixed so that when the boat capsizes, it does not come off and injure people.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I install the console on a boat less than 3 meters long?

Technically possible, but not feasible, on boats less than 3 meters long (e.g., The frigate M-280 or WinBoat 275) The console will take up too much useful space in the cockpit, disrupt the weight distribution and make it difficult to land.

How to protect the electronics from moisture inside the console?

Use sealed boxes to place fuses and terminal pads. All wire holes in the console body be sure to seal with silicone sealant or special rubber plugs (passers). Regularly check the condition of the seals.

Do I need to take off the console for the winter?

The console itself is not required to be removed if it is securely secured. However, all electronics, batteries and easily removed accessories (holders, cupholders) are strongly recommended to be dismantled and stored in a warm dry room. Plastic in the cold becomes fragile and can burst from accidental impact.

What is the maximum size of the sounder screen that can be placed on the console?

This depends on the size of your console's "torpedo": standard seats are usually designed for screens up to 7-9 inches. Larger displays (10-12 inches) may require a custom bracket or a larger console.