The legendary M Kazanka, despite its venerable age, remains one of the most massive metal boats in the post-Soviet space. Its simple D16T duraluminium design allows enthusiasts to create real wonders of engineering, turning a utilitarian trough into a comfortable boat. However, the regular stability and seaworthiness of this model often leaves much to be desired, especially when installing modern high-powered outboard motors.
The modernization process requires careful preparation, welding equipment and a deep understanding of the boatβs physics. Installation of boules It changes the fluid dynamics and static stability of the body, making it more comfortable to feel excited. Many owners underestimate the complexity of the work, forgetting that dural alloy requires a special approach to welding, otherwise the body can get critical damage in the heat. In this article, we will discuss all the stages of turning the classic Kazanka into a modern and safe water transport.
Before you start cutting metal, you need to weigh the pros and cons, because returning to the factory state will be almost impossible without a complete replacement of the skin. tuning boat Kazanka M It is important to understand that any interference with the design of the vessel must be carried out in accordance with technical regulations, so as not to turn the boat into an unstable platform, dangerous to life.
Analysis of the standard design and the need for modernization
The standard design of the Kazanka M was originally designed for low-power engines such as Moscow or Neptune. The narrow hull, with a narrowed stern and almost vertical sides in the bow, creates the illusion of speed, but in practice turns into low stability. When you try to install a motor over 25 hp, the boat becomes prone to a sharp roll, and at full speed can occur dangerous yaw. Body reinforcement In this context, it is the first step before installing any additional elements.
The main problem is the small width of the cheekbones and the absence of pronounced contours that extinguish the side swing. D16T dural alloy used in production has high strength but low ductility compared to steel, which means that when hit by a wave or obstacle, the body does not βrememberβ, but can crack, especially in areas of stress concentration, which is why before starting work on expanding the functionality, you need to defect the bottom and transom.
β οΈ Warning: Before welding, be sure to remove all flammable materials from inside the boat. Sparks from welding duraluminium can ignite fuel residues or paintwork, leading to a fire.
Owners often find that the regular cockpit is too small to accommodate modern fishing gear or navigation equipment. Expanding usable space by boules solves this problem, but requires accurate displacement calculations. You can't just weld metal boxes on the sides without considering how the center of gravity and the boat's deflection will change. Wrong calculation can lead to the boat becoming a roller or, conversely, to get excessive stability, which is also dangerous in high winds.
Design of boules: sizes, shape and materials
The design of the boules is a key step in the final seaworthiness of the vessel. Kazan M. These are usually made in the form of sealed box structures welded along the side from the transom to the mid-spangout. The optimal width of the boulder is 200-300 mm, which allows you to increase the total width of the boat by 400-600 mm. This width provides the necessary volume to improve stability, without turning the boat into a slow-moving barge with huge water resistance.
Material for boules should serve as the same duraluminum D16T thickness of at least 2 mm The use of steel or thinner aluminum is unacceptable: steel will create a galvanic pair and quickly rot, and the thin metal will not withstand hydrodynamic loads. Buhl design The bulkheads must include internal bulkheads (spoons) every 300-400 mm in length, and they have a dual function: they give rigidity to the structure and divide the volume of the boolean into compartments, which is important in the case of damage to the outer lining.
The shape of the boule in cross section can be rectangular or trapezoidal. The rectangular shape is easier to make, but creates more water resistance. The trapezoidal shape, tapering to the bottom, is more hydrodynamic and allows the boat to climb more easily to plane. It is also important to provide for the slope of the upper plane of the boule in the side (2-3 degrees) so that water falling on the deck drains in a zygomatic rainstorm, spies, rather than stagnating at the side.
Calculation of the volume of boules
To calculate the required volume of boule, use the formula V = (P * k) / (Ο - Ο_water), where P is the weight to be compensated, k is the reserve coefficient (1.2), Ο is the density of water. For Kazanka M, it is usually enough to add 100-150 liters of total volume on the sides.
When you design, don't forget the tanning stove. If you're planning on putting a motor that's more powerful than the standard one, the standard transom. Kazan You'll have to reinforce or change it to a higher, more powerful one, and the stern buoys often become wings that support the engine compartment and prevent the stern from burrowing when it accelerates.
Duraluminum welding technology and surface preparation
Duraluminum welding is the most difficult stage of tuning, requiring professional equipment and skills. For working with alloys of the D16T series, argono-arc welding (TIG) using a filler wire of the appropriate brand, for example, AD1 or AMg6 is ideal. Using a conventional electric arc welding or a gas burner without flux will lead to metal burning and the formation of porous, unsealed seams. The quality of the seam It directly affects the safety of the boat.
The surface is prepared up to 70 percent of the time welding takes place. Aluminum is instantly coated with an oxide film that has a melting point much higher than the metal itself. So before welding, you need to mechanically clean the joint with a stainless brush (used only for aluminum) and treat it with chemical etching or a special flux, ignoring this step will lead to indiges and cracks.
βοΈ Preparation for boulevard welding
It's important to keep the heat regimen in the welding process. Duraluminum is highly thermally conductive, so heat quickly goes into the metal array, which requires more current. However, overheating leads to a loss of strength in the peri-seam zone. Experienced craftsmen use special heat-dissipating copper linings to control the temperature and form the correct root of the seam. Once welding is completed, the seams must be cleaned and checked for tightness with kerosene breakage or abundant soaping with air.
β οΈ Warning: Do not use steel wire to clean aluminum. Iron particles trapped in the aluminum pores will cause focal corrosion, which will corrode the boat hull in a season.
Bottom and set frame reinforcement of the boat
Installing boules and a powerful motor puts additional strain on the boat's power set. Kazan M. They're not designed to be used as a support for broad boules and heavy engines, so the first step after welding the boules (or in parallel) should be to reinforce the set, using duraluminum corners or strips of the same material that link the frames to the new side elements.
Special attention should be paid to the bottom. Increased speed specifications and weight of the boat increases the risk of shock loads on the wave. It is recommended to install additional longitudinal reds or strengthen existing ones. Often owners sew the bottom of a sheet of plywood (water resistant FSF) thickness of 10-12 mm, covered with epoxy resin and fiberglass. This not only enhances the structure, but also reduces the noise of the boat when moving and creates a smoother surface for movement inside the cockpit.
The slab is another critical node, and if the standard transom cannot withstand the weight of the motor, it is replaced with a hinged one or reinforced with powerful scarves. Tranx reinforcement It must transfer the load from the motor to the cheekbones and bottom, not just to the vertical plane of the stern, and this prevents vibration and destruction of the stern part of the body when driving at high speeds.
Use vibro-insulating rubber pads between the metal frame and the wooden floor covering, which will reduce the vibration transfer from the motor to the hull and reduce the overall noise in the boat.
Stability and driving performance calculation
Once welding and bulging are done, the boat has new specifications, and in theory, the increase in width should increase stability, but in practice it depends on the distribution of the masses, and if the boules are too heavy or water gets into them, the center of gravity can shift, and the boat becomes a roller. Stability calculation It is better to do it empirically: gradually loading the boat with the equivalent of the weight of the crew and equipment, checking the roll when moving people on board.
Driving performance Kazankas with boules They also change. The boat becomes more roller at low speeds, but more confident in excitement. However, increasing the width and area of the wetted surface can reduce the maximum speed and increase fuel consumption. To compensate for this, many craftsmen install hydrowings or transom slabs on the cheekbones, which help the boat to go faster for glides and occupy the optimal angle of trim.
| Parameter | State Kazanka M | Kazanka M with boules | Change of change |
|---|---|---|---|
| Body width, mm | 1200 | 1600-1700 | +400 mm |
| Load capacity, kg | 400 | 600-700 | +50-75% |
| Recommended engine power, hp | 25 | up to 50-60 | Enlarged. |
| Stability (shoulder of the metacenter) | Low. | High. | Higher than that. |
Importantly, a boat with boules becomes more sensitive to lateral winds due to increased sailing, which must be taken into account when maneuvering in stormy weather, and the circulation radius changes: a wider hull requires smoother turns, especially at high speeds, to avoid a sharp roll and possible rollover.
The main result of the modernization is that you get a platform that can safely carry the engine 40-50 hp and withstand a wave of up to 0.75 meters, which is not available in the standard version.
Finishing and anticorrosion protection
The final stage of tuning is to protect the metal and give the boat an aesthetic appearance. Duraluminium, although it does not rust like steel, is subject to electrochemical and intercrystalline corrosion, especially in welding areas. Anti-corrosion treatment It should be carefully carried out, otherwise, after a few seasons, the appearance of the boat will leave much to be desired. First, the surface is degreased, then primed with special adhesive soils for non-ferrous metals (for example, GF-021 will not work, you need epoxy or zinc-filled soil).
Two-component polyurethane paints are best suited for painting, which form a strong, chemically resistant coating. The color scheme can be any, but light colors (gray, light blue, white) are less heated in the sun, which is important for a metal boat. Inside the cockpit, often use anti-slip coatings or rubber-based carpet, which increases comfort and safety.
Don't forget to put rubber or PVC profiles on the bules, which will protect the sides from impacts on the pier and other boats, and you can also provide hatches for storing things in the bules, turning them into additional locks, which will greatly improve the ease of operation of the boat during long fishing or travel.
β οΈ Warning: Never keep a boat full of water inside the boules. Even microscopic cracks in the seams can let water through, which will freeze in the winter and tear the structure apart. Always check the tightness before wintering.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Do I need to register a boat after installing boules in GIMS?
Yes, any changes to the design of a small vessel affecting its load capacity, passenger capacity or engine power require changes to documents or re-registration.
Can I cook the boules with a regular electric welding?
It is strongly discouraged. Electric welding produces too deep and narrow heating, which for fine duraluminium (2 mm) means guaranteed burnout and disruption of metal structure. Only argon (TIG) or high-quality semi-automatic welding in argon environment.
What is the maximum motor to be put on Kazanka M with boules?
With well-designed boules and reinforced transceiver Kazanka M confidently holds motors up to 50-60 hp However, it is worth remembering that the boat remains flat bottom, and speeding over 40-45 km / h can be dangerous due to shocks to the wave.
How to fix small cracks in the dural body?
For temporary repairs, you can use fiberglass-reinforced epoxy glue. Major repairs require welding the crack with argon after drilling the ends of the crack to stop it from spreading.