Fishing with a swimming aid offers a fisherman unique opportunities that are not available in shore fishing. You can stand above the most promising point, feed a narrow local area and methodically catch it. However, it is the accuracy of feeding that is the narrow neck that often separates a good catch from an empty cage.
Use of use boat-feeder So you can get the bait right to the right spot, and you can create a dense stern, and unlike a lander where you can throw it up to a few meters, you can drop it vertically, and this is especially critical when you're fishing in a strong current, or when you're hunting large fish that require you to concentrate food in a small area.
In this article, we will discuss in detail how to choose the right device, how to install it correctly and what tactics will help you become more effective. We will touch on technical nuances that are often ignored by beginners, but are key for pros.
Design features and types of feeders
The right device depends on the fishing conditions and the type of bait. There are many modifications, but for fishing from the side, the most effective designs are those that ensure quick and complete emptying. Classic cone feeder It is considered a universal solution, as it allows bait to sleep freely when opening the bottom valve.
Fishing on the current often uses what are called rockets or cylindrical models with additional load, the main requirement for them is the stability of the lowering, the device must not be very demolished by the flow of water, otherwise the feeding point will shift from the hole or anchor. It is also important to consider the volume: for starter feeding you need large models, and for feeding during fishing - compact.
The fabrication material also plays a role: Plastic models are light and non-rust, but can be brittle in the cold. Metal mesh options are durable, sink quickly and well washed, preventing the residues of bait from souring between fishing trips.
- 🐟 Cone models - the ideal choice for bulk mixtures and live feed, provide instant reset.
- ⚓ Weighted cylinders - are designed for a strong current, where it is important to quickly penetrate the bottom layer.
- 🌊 Mesh containers - great for creating a long-playing aft plume from inert components.
⚠️ Attention: When buying a metal feeder, be sure to check the quality of the welds and anti-corrosion coating. Contact with salt or fresh water quickly destroys poor-quality metal, and the device can crumble at the most inopportune moment.
Design secrets
Why does shape matter?: The geometry of the feeder influences hydrodynamics. The cone shape reduces water resistance when lowered, allowing you to get to a point more accurately. Flat or square shapes can sail heavily along the current, taking the bait away from the hole.
Discharge mechanisms and feeding management
The key to any feeder is the opening mechanism, and the reliability of the feed depends on whether your feed gets to the right place or crumbles on the way to the bottom. The most common mechanical latches that open when you hit the bottom or pull a line. cable-controlIt allows you to control the moment of discharge visually.
The cable opening system works like an elevator, where the feeder goes down, the angler pulls the cord, and the bottom opens, so you don't waste bait while the device goes down through the water column, and this is especially true when fishing at great depths, where the fall time can take a minute or more.
There are also automatic models with a timer or electronics, but for amateur and semi-professional fishing, the mechanic is more reliable. The simplicity of the design minimizes the risk of failure. It is important that the hinges and locks do not get stuck with sand or silt, so after each fishing, the mechanism must be thoroughly washed.
Lubricate the moving parts of the reset mechanism with silicone lubrication after each fishing, which will prevent corrosion and jamming of the locks, ensuring smooth operation even after a long downtime.
When using live feed, such as moth or squirrel, the mechanism must ensure full opening so that the larvae do not get stuck inside. Narrow slits can become a trap for the living component, depriving you of the effectiveness of complementary foods.
Tactics of feeding a point from a boat
Boat fishing dictates the game, and the main advantage is the ability to create a local but very rich feeding spot. The strategy is usually divided into two stages: feeding and feeding during fishing, and in the first stage, up to 70% of the total supply of baiting is used to quickly collect fish.
Lower. boat-feederTry to do this as smoothly as possible so you don't scare the fish with a splash and noise. If you're fishing in shallow water, this rule becomes critical. Once you reach the bottom, let the device lie down for a couple of seconds to settle the suspension, and then open the valve.
To keep the fish at a point, you need to add small portions of food regularly. The frequency of feeding depends on the activity of the fish and the strength of the current. If you like the tide, you can try to change the rhythm: pause or, conversely, increase the toss of bait to provoke food hype.
It's important to consider the direction of the current. Even from a boat, if it's not anchored rigidly, or if the current is strong, the bait cloud can carry away. In such cases, it makes sense to feed a little higher upstream from the hole, calculating the demolition. However, in sheer flare or plumb fishing, accuracy of getting "noded" or "drizzled" is a priority.
Equipment and installation: line, cargo and nodes
To control the feeder, a separate gear is most often used, not associated with the main fishing rod. This can be a simple mottler with a durable fishing line or a monophilic cord with a diameter of 0.3-0.5 mm. The use of wickers is justified at great depths, since it has minimal sailing and better transmits the signal to touch the bottom.
The cargo, if it's not built into the feeder itself, has to be removable, so you can vary the weight depending on the conditions, the load has to be secure, but you can quickly replace it with a heavier or lighter one, and often anglers use carbines with vertebrae to quickly change the gear.
The knots should be simple and reliable. It is recommended to use the Palamar or Clinch knot to tie carbines. If you use a sliding load, the speed limiters should be stop knots or special beads that will not damage the main line.
| Equipment component | Recommended material | Diameter/Performance | Appointment |
|---|---|---|---|
| Main line | Monophile or fluorocarbon | 0.30 - 0.45 mm | Main load, visibility in the water |
| Control cord | The wicket (PE) | 0.10 - 0.15 mm | Transfer of force to the discharge mechanism |
| gruzillo | Lead/Tungsten | 50 - 200 g | Fast dive, hold on to the flow |
| carbine | Stainless steel | Size No. 4-No. 6 | Quick-release connection |
⚠️ Attention: Never use a line with visible damage or "twisting" to tie heavy loads; if you pull, this line can burst, and you lose an expensive feeder along with the load.
Fodder mixtures: consistency and composition
The effectiveness of the feeder depends on the quality and condition of the feeding. For fishing from a boat, especially using cone models, the mixture must be properly moistened. Too dry bait will pour out in the upper layers of the water, creating a vertical pillar, not a bottom spot.
The optimal consistency is like wet sand, which holds its shape when compressed, but easily breaks down when touched. To flow, the mixture is made more sticky by adding clay or special binders. For standing water, on the contrary, the mixture must be looser to spread the aroma faster.
It must include components that are part of the nozzle. If you catch a moth, add it to the feeder. flavoring It is justified in cold water when you need to attract fish from a distance, but in warm water it is better to rely on the natural smells of the ingredients.
☑️ Checking bait-readiness
Don't forget the color of the bait. In clear water and shallow water, it's best to use dark mixtures to avoid disturbing the fish with a contrast spot. In depth and in murky water, color is not crucial, the smell and the presence of dusty particles are more important.
Seasonal Features and Safety
In different seasons, fish behavior and fishing conditions change, which requires adjustments in the tactics of using the feeder. In winter, when fishing from the ice, the main problem is freezing mechanisms and fishing lines. In summer, when fishing from a boat in open water, the main thing is the sailing of the gear and the accuracy of delivery at depth.
Safety on the water is priority number one. When using a feeder from the side, make sure that the fishing line does not get tangled around the propeller of the motor or the legs of the angler. A sharp jerk of a large fish or a hook can cause injury or loss of balance in the boat.
Also, remember the environment. Don't leave any plastic feeders or bait packs in the water. If your feeder is stuck and it can't be rescued, it's better to break the line, but try to rescue the device with a bagrom than to throw it at the bottom.
The key to successful fishing from a boat is the balance between the amount of bait and the activity of the fish. It is easier to overfeed the fish now, in the age of available formula, than to underfeed.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Which feeder to choose for fishing on a strong current?
For strong currents, perforated weighted cylindrical feeders are best suited, they sink faster and are less blown away by the flow, and it is important that the holes are large enough to flush quickly, but not large enough to fly out when lowered.
Do I need to add soil to the bait when fishing from a boat?
Yes, if you're fishing at a depth of more than 3-4 meters or on the current, the ground (clay, black soil) weights the bait balls, helping them reach the bottom faster, and blurs the feeding in time, preventing the fish from quickly saturating.
How often should you lower the feeding feeder for feeding?
The interval depends on the activity of the snail. At the beginning of the fishing, after the start feeding, the first feeding is done in 30-40 minutes. Then you focus on the cool: if the fish stopped taking, then it ate the food or left, and you need to add a fresh portion.
Can I use one feeder for live and vegetable feed?
Technically possible, but not recommended: Live feed (moth, bacon) requires careful handling and large cells to exit; Vegetable porridge can clog cells; it is better to have two different devices or thoroughly wash the feeder between changing the type of bait.
What to do if the feeder is stuck at the bottom?
Don't pull hard so you don't break the line at the feeder. Try to change the angle of tension by moving the boat (if the anchor system allows). You can try knocking on the fishing line to stir up the mud. If it doesn't help, use the uncouple or, in extreme cases, break the line at the place of least resistance (at the knot).