Modern inflatable fishing is hard to imagine without an electronic assistant that allows you to see the topography of the bottom and the accumulation of fish. However, while the installation of a sonar on a rigid body is usually not a problem due to transom mounts, with a soft inflatable balloon design, this is more difficult, owners have to find a compromise between the reliability of the fixation and the integrity of the cylinders, so as not to damage the expensive material.
The main difficulty is that many models of inflatable boats do not have a rigid transector, or in its specific shape, which does not allow the use of standard brackets. Incorrectly installing the sensor can lead to loss of signal, false depth readings or, worst of all, to a puncture of the balloon while driving. sound-proof It is a critical stage in preparing the boat for the season, requiring a careful approach and understanding of hydrodynamics.
In this article, we will discuss all proven installation methods, from simple temporary solutions to capital installation, which will last for many years, you will learn how to avoid common errors, what materials to use for sealing and how to properly configure the device after installation. Accuracy of testimony It depends on how smoothly and steadily the converter is fixed in water.
Choosing the optimal location for mounting the sensor
The first and most important step is to determine where the water flow is most laminar, and if you place the sensor in the turbulence zone of the propeller or the irregularities of the bottom of the boat, you'll see noise interference that interferes with view, and the ideal place is to wash the hull smoothly, without the formation of air bubbles and vortices.
When choosing a location, you need to take into account the design features of your PVCOften the sensor is shifted closer to the bow or board to avoid contact with the propeller during maneuvers, it is also important to check whether the mounting will interfere when landing and disembarking fishermen or when folding the boat into a transport position.
- 📍 Avoid areas near the propeller where cavitation and air bubbles form.
- 📍 Choose a place with a minimum number of stiffness ribs or seams on the bottom.
- 📍 Make sure the cable does not RUB against the side or interfere with the legs when rowing.
- 📍 Check the availability of a place to maintain and clean the sensor from algae.
It is worth noting that inflatable boats with inflatable floor (BBB) search for a flat area may take longer because of the surface relief, in such cases it is recommended to use additional rigid inserts or platforms that will serve as the basis for the sensor.
⚠️ Warning: Never install the sensor in an area where, when the boat rolls, it can touch the water surface at a sharp angle or hit floating objects, which will cause signal distortion or mechanical damage.
Methods of fastening without drilling the body
For new boat owners or those who don't want to break the integrity of the cylinders, there are methods of fixing without using a drill. One of the most popular options is the use of suction cups or special adhesive areas, but they require a perfectly smooth and clean surface. Another common method is the use of a squirrel board, if the design of the boat allows it to be installed.
Suction mounting is suitable for temporary use or testing of the sonar before major installation, the main condition is that the surface of the balloon must be defatted, and the suction cup itself has a reliable fixing mechanism. two-component or special PVC glues, which are glued to a small rigid area (pet) to the balloon.
The process of gluing the site requires careful surface preparation, the container must be washed, dried and cleaned with fine sandpaper at the contact point, and after applying the glue and installing the site, it takes time for complete polymerization, usually from 12 to 24 hours, depending on the recommendations of the adhesive manufacturer.
The transom board is a compromise that allows you to rigidly lock the sensor without touching the soft cylinders, and the board is inserted into slots or attached to a rigid transom, and the sonar bracket is mounted on it, which ensures the stability of readings even at high speeds.
Capital installation: installation in a rigid transom
If your boat is equipped with a rigid plywood or aluminum transom, then drilling is the most reliable way to install. This method ensures that the sensor will never shift or get lost in the water.
Before drilling, you need to precisely mark the hole, making sure that there are no obstacles to the drill on the back of the transom. The diameter of the hole should correspond to the diameter of the sensor leg, usually 20 mm, but it is better to check the specification of your model. Lowrance or GarminThe hole should be treated with sandpaper to remove the burrs.
Sealing is a key point in this phase, and even if you use a threaded connection with rubber seals, you can use an extra layer of sea sealant to prevent moisture from entering the transom, which is especially true for plywood structures that fear rotting.
☑️ Installation tools
Once the sensor is installed and the nuts are tightened, the excess sealant must be carefully removed, forming a neat burque around the leg, which will not only improve the appearance, but also create additional waterproofing protection, and it is important not to drag the nuts, so as not to deform the plastic case of the sensor.
Materials and tools for reliable fixation
The quality of the installation depends on the materials used. Cheap silicone can peel off after the season, and conventional glue will not withstand contact with gasoline or oil. To work with PVC and marine conditions, a specialized set of materials is required to ensure the longevity of the connection.
The table below shows the basic materials and their purpose in the installation of the sonar. Using inappropriate analogues may lead to the need to redo the work in a short time.
| Materials | Appointment | Features of application |
|---|---|---|
| Polyurethane sealant | Sealing of holes | High elasticity, resistance to UV |
| Pvc adhesive (two-component) | Sticking of sites | Requires precise dosage and drying time |
| Stainless steel (A4) | Fastening (bolts, nuts) | It doesn't rust in salt water. |
| Isopropyl alcohol | Degreasing | Does not leave the film, quickly dries |
Special attention should be paid to the cable, if the stale length is not enough, you need to build it up with special waterproof couplings, a screw wrapped in tape will not live long in water conditions and will lead to loss of signal or short circuit.
How to check the quality of sealing?
Once the sealant is installed and dry, you can do a simple test: wet the connection with water and soap solution and apply air on the back (if possible), or just watch during the season, the appearance of bubbles will indicate a defect.
Depth adjustment and calibration after installation
Once the sensor is physically attached, it needs to be properly adjusted relative to the water, the depth of the sensor affects the maximum speed at which the sounder can still read data, and if the sounder is set too high, it can "catch air" at speed, if it is too low, it will create resistance and sail.
The position is considered optimal when the lower part of the sensor (sole) is below the bottom level of the boat by 3-5 mm for aluminum shells, and can be slightly deeper for PVC, so that the fairing does not touch the soft bottom when loaded.
- 🔧 Check the horizontality of the sensor when standing on the water boat without load.
- 🔧 Make sure that the cable does not create resistance to water.
- 🔧 Conduct a test swim at different speeds to check the signal stability.
Many modern sonars have the function of calibrating speed and sensitivity. After installation, be sure to reset the settings to the factory and perform a new calibration to allow the device to take into account the new conditions of the sensor.
⚠️ Warning: At the first water, be sure to check the reliability of the attachment at low speed. A sharp jerk or loss of the sensor can lead to its failure on the screw or loss in the water area.
Typical errors and ways to fix them
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes that negate all efforts. One of the most common problems is putting the sensor at an angle, which causes the sonar to stop "seeing" the bottom at speed, which is because the reflected signal goes away rather than returns to the receiver.
Another common mistake is to use an inappropriate sealant that is destroyed by solar ultraviolet light or fuel, and as a result, after a year or two, the mounting weakens, and water begins to flow inside the transom, and often forget about protecting the cable at the entrance to the housing, where it can be rubbed.
Use adhesive-coated shrinkage on all cable connections, and the usual insulation in the sun and water will quickly become unusable, opening the contacts to moisture.
If you notice that the depth readings are "jumping" or disappearing at speed, try lowering the sensor below or changing its angle of inclination. Sometimes it helps to simply clean the surface of the sensor from sticky dirt or microscopic algae that are invisible to the eye but interfere with the signal.
The key to success is to take your time with the final fixation: let the sealant or glue dry completely and run a few test drives before you consider the job complete.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can the sounder sensor be mounted directly on the inflatable floor (NDB)?
Mounting directly onto the soft inflatable floor is not recommended, as when moving it deforms, changing the angle of the sensor, which will lead to loss of signal.
Which sealant is best for PVC?
For PVC, polyurethane sealants (such as 3M 4200 or similar boat sealants) or special two-component adhesives for PVC fabrics are best suited. Conventional plumbing silicone is poorly held.
At what height from the bottom of the boat should there be a sensor?
It is optimal that the working surface of the sensor is below the bottom line by 5-10 mm. This will ensure stable contact with water even when rolling and moving, minimizing the entry of air under the emitter.
What to do if the cable is too short?
The cable can be built up using a wire of the same cross-section and type, and the connection must be soldered and insulated with a shrink tube with glue inside for 100% tightness.