Fishing from a swimming pool provides the fisherman with access to the most promising but hard-to-reach places in the reservoir. Unlike shore fishing, the boat allows him to position himself precisely above the eyebrows, pits and riverbeds where large fish concentrate. However, when a strong current is added, the process turns from simply lowering the bait into a complex tactical engineering action that requires a deep understanding of hydrodynamics.
The main difficulty is that the flow of water constantly demolishes the boat, violates the verticality of the wiring and changes the game of artificial fish. Effective fishing in the course It's impossible without proper gear training and critically, proper anchoring, and many beginners make the mistake of trying to catch "free drift," which, on a high jet, only leads to chaotic bait movement and no bites.
In this article, we'll take a look at all the nuances of the technique, from the choice of anchor system to specific nods that will allow you to stay productive even in areas with fast flow. Understanding the physics of the process is the key to trophies.
Features of predator behavior on a strong stream
Fish that live in fast-flowing rivers have developed unique survival and hunting strategies. Predators like the pike, the berch, or the big bass rarely stand on the stream itself, because it requires a tremendous amount of energy. hydrodynamic shelter - zones behind bottom anomalies, where the flow of water slows down or twists into reverse funnels.
It's in these pockets that the feeding base is stored, and the predator is waiting for it, and when you're fishing from a boat, your task is not just to lower the bait to the bottom, but to draw it along the border of calm water and the main stream, and often the bites occur when the vertically playing splendor or balancer enters this border zone.
It is important to consider that in strong currents, fish may be less active at certain hours, preferring to save energy. search It becomes more important than the number of wirings that you make, and using a sonar helps you visualize not only the topography, but also the clusters of fish that are tied to specific boulders or holes at the bottom.
- π The predator often stands head against the current, waiting for prey that the stream carries directly into his mouth.
- π In a high stream, the fish is less careful, as their focus is on holding position and hunting.
- β The key factor of success is the precise positioning of the boat above the βpetβ where the fish stands.
Use the side sonar scanner to find individual snags or stones that create zones of calm water behind them - these are ideal places for a pike to park.
Selection and preparation of gear for sheer flare
The plumb fishing gear on the current must have a certain amount of strength and sensitivity, and unlike standing water, the flow will push the line down, arching it into the arc, which can significantly reduce control over the bait game, so the choice of rod and reel is crucial.
The optimal length of the angler is from 0.6 to 1.0 meters. Shorter whips are inconvenient for cutting off a boat, and too long will sail in the wind. nod Or the gatehouse must be rigid, made of a metal plate or a hard lausan, so that the current does not knock it into an unreadable arc. Some anglers prefer to catch without a nod at all, relying on the tactile sensitivity of the hand, which is often the most effective method on the flow.
The coil can be anything from a simple inertial Nevsky to a modern multiplier, the main requirement is the reliability of the brake and the ability to quickly pelt the line when pecking a large specimen. Leaf is better to use a monophilic 0.25-0.35 mm diameter or fluorocarbon, which is less sailing in water and more resistant to abrasion against the shell.
Why isn't the wicket always good on the flow?
The wicker cord has minimal stretching, which is good for sensitivity, but it sails very strongly along the current, creating a huge arc, which interferes with the proper play of the bait and can lead to frequent descents when sharp cuts.
Anchoring systems: how to get to the point
Without a reliable anchor, fishing on the current becomes torture, and the boat will be constantly turned around, demolished, and you will not be able to catch a promising area. There are several basic anchoring schemes, each of which has its own advantages depending on the strength of the flow and the wind.
The most common option is to anchor one anchor from the bow, and the boat stands up against the current (or against the wind if it is stronger than the current), which ensures the most stable position. However, with a strong wind blowing across the current, the boat can turn on the side, making fishing impossible. stretch-out (An anchor system of two anchors).
Stretching allows you to lock the boat in any position relative to the shore or current, one anchor is set upstream, the second one is lower, or you use a rhombus scheme where the anchors are spread out diagonally, which allows you to rigidly fix the boat above the point, eliminating any vibrations.
It is important to use anchors of sufficient weight. The formula is simple: the weight of the anchor in kilograms should be approximately equal to the length of the boat in meters multiplied by the current coefficient (for a strong current, the factor is 1.5-2). The use of light cat anchors on a clay bottom with the current often leads to their pulling.
Wiring technique and selection of baits
The technique of plumbing in the current is very different from playing in standing water, so you don't need to play a lot, a lot of games, but the main task is to give the bait rhythmic vibrations, which the flow of water will transform into a vibration that is attractive to the predator.
The wiring usually looks like this: a smooth lift of the fishing rod by 20-40 cm, a short pause and a sharp but not strong brush stroke, followed by a free fall. During the pause, you often have to make it shorter, since the flow itself "trembles" the bait. The critical point is vertical control.: The bait should return to almost the same point from which the flap was made.
For baits, narrow, heavy balancers and vertical splashes with a shifted center of gravity are best suited for flow. Good results are shown by heavy rattles (vibas), which create powerful low-frequency vibrations, well perceived by the sideline of the fish in turbid water.
| Type of bait | Weight (gram) | Features of the game during | Target fish |
|---|---|---|---|
| Balancer | 7β12 | He goes away when he rises, plans when he falls. | Perch, Pike. |
| Vertical splash | 10β20 | Rash play, strong vibration of the tail | Sudak, Bersh. |
| Rattlin (VIB) | 10β15 | Trembling the whole body, creating powerful waves | Sudak, Jerech |
| Bokoplav | 12β18 | Arc movement, side-to-side rollover | Sudak, Big Perch. |
| The data is relevant for depths of 4-8 meters and medium/strong current. | |||
On a strong current often works the rule: the more passive the game and the heavier the bait, the more confident the cliff, since the fish does not want to chase quickly running prey.
Use of sonar and navigation
Modern fishing is unthinkable without a sonar. Visual monitoring of the bottom is difficult during the course, and only the screen of the device can show the real picture. It is important to be able to distinguish between fish standing at the bottom and those in the pond. In plumb fishing, often those individuals that hang 1-2 meters above the bottom relief are working.
Using a GPS tracker, you can go back to the catch points ("Pittocks") with the accuracy of a meter. On the river with the flow, the terrain can be difficult, and finding that very eyebrow half a meter wide without coordinates is almost impossible. Record the bite points, even if the peck was weak β at other times of the day or when the pressure changes, this point can "shot."
Some sonar models have a βshore fishingβ mode or special sensitivity settings for vertical flare. Scanning frequency It is also important: at great depths and high flow, it is better to use low frequencies (50 kHz or DownVision) to see the big picture, and to switch to high frequencies (200 kHz or High Definition) for detailed debugging of the bottom.
βοΈ Flow-flight tuning
Typical errors and security measures
Boat Fishing on the current is a high risk, and the first and most common mistake is neglecting the anchor thack, and if the anchor end gets tangled by the engine screw, or worse, by the angler's legs when the boat jerks abruptly, the consequences can be tragic. Always keep the knife in an accessible place.
β οΈ Attention: Never tie the anchor shaft rigidly to the boat without the possibility of a rapid cliff or shoot. When the water level changes dramatically (call/surge) or anchors are hooked by a snag, the boat can flip or pull under the water. Use burst inserts or keep an axe on hand.
The second mistake is misjudgement of depth and terrain. Trying to anchor on a steep dump can cause the boat to turn to a wave or current and start to overwhelm. Always assess the angle of inclination of the bottom before anchoring.
The third mistake is ignoring the weather. On big water, the weather changes rapidly. Storm wind combined with current can create a dangerous situation, especially for PVC inflatable boats. Always have a backup plan for the coast and watch the forecast.
β οΈ Attention: When fishing on a strong current, it is forbidden to anchor in the middle of the fairway or in places of heavy navigation. You may not be noticed, and you cannot maneuver anchored boat.
Use a life jacket. It's not just a formality, it's a necessity. Falling into cold water on the current, even in a summer suit, can lead to rapid hypothermia and loss of strength. The vest will help you stay afloat and wait for help.
What to do if the anchor shaft is confused?
If the anchor foul is wound on the screw, do not try to work with the engine. Carefully tighten the foul, trying to unwind it with a bulge or a hand (in a glove!). If the anchor is stuck dead, use a bulwark (uncoupling cargo) or a special loop to uncoup.
Seasonal Features of Fishing
Pool fishing is most effective during periods when fish concentrate in deep pits. This is late autumn, when the water cools and the predator rolls into the winter pits, and early spring, before spawning. In summer, active perch and pellet can also be found on a strong current, but the fish can be more dispersed.
Winter fishing from a boat (over open water or under ice if thickness permits, although this is a boat) requires a special approach. In deafness, fish are passive, and the wiring should be barely noticeable. In autumn, during the period of zest, the predator reacts to aggressive, fast play.
It's important to consider the transparency of the water. In murky spring water, baits with noise cameras and bright colors work better. In clear autumn water, the color and naturalness of the game come to the fore. Temperature conditions It also dictates its conditions: in warm water, the metabolism of fish is higher, and it responds faster to bait.
Which line is better to use: a wicker or a monophile?
On strong currents and when fishing in plumb from a boat, a monophilic fishing line or fluorocarbon is preferred, the tiles are strongly sailing, it is being carried away by the current, which disrupts the verticality of the wiring, and the monophile is stretched, which smooths out sharp fish jerks and prevents descent, and is less confused in wind and frost.
Do I need to use a leash when fishing in the plumb?
Yes, the leash is mandatory if there is a pike in the pond. Even if you aim at a pike, pike "hit" is common. For the flow, it is better to use string leashes or thick fluorocarbon (0.4-0.6 mm), as they affect the game of bait less than soft wicker leashes.
Can I catch a plumb from an inflatable PVC boat on a strong current?
Yes, you can, but with caution. PVC boats have high sailing speed. Be sure to use anchor stretching so that the boat does not turn on board. On very strong currents and high waves, an inflatable boat is less stable than a metal boat, so assess the risks soberly.
What weight of bait is optimal for a depth of 5-7 meters with the current?
For these conditions, the optimal weight of a balancer or lure is 10-18 grams. Lighter lures will be carried away and you will lose contact with the bottom. Heavyer ones can play too hard, which is not always the case with passive fish. Experiment in the range of 12-15 grams.