Boat Fishing offers a lifelong experience that is beyond the reach of shoreliners, and you have access to deep-sea brows, river dumps and remote pits where the trophy fish feels safe, but classic shoreline installation won't work here: the specifics of fishing from the board dictate their own stringent requirements for rod length, weight of the loader and how to install the tackle.
The key difference is the vertical component of the bait feed, so if we throw a loader horizontally on the shore, we lower it down from the boat, often to a considerable depth, which changes the mechanics of the catch and the requirements for the strength of the fishing line. Installation of the donkey from the boat It should be as simple as possible, but reliable so that in the case of a hook or bite of a large catfish, you can quickly orientate yourself.
Also, in open water, there is often wind blowing, which creates a wave that rocks the boat, which creates false bites if the gear is not set up correctly. In this article, we will examine all the nuances of building effective bottom gear specifically for boat fishing, from choosing a stick to finding fish.
Choice of rod and coil for boat fishing
The first thing that starts with the preparation is choosing the right tool. Forget about the long feeder rods 3.60-4.20 meters long. On a boat, especially if it is small, there will be nowhere to turn with such a stick, and it will be strong to sail in the wind. The optimal length of the rod for fishing from the board is from the top of the boat. 1.80 before 2.40 That's enough for comfortable catching and control of the gear.
The rod test must match the weight of the feeders or loaders used. Because fishing is often conducted over a current and deep water, the weight of the load can reach 100-150 grams or more. top-test The form should be at least 100 grams, and preferably 150 grams. A short, powerful rod will allow you to feel even cautious bites at a depth of 10 meters, where the line is under tremendous pressure from the water column.
The choice of the coil should also be taken seriously. For bottom fishing from a boat, the ideal fit is the inertial models of the size of the coil. 4000β5000 It's a Shimano classification. friction-system with fine tuning, since catching fish will have to be almost vertically, and extinguish the jerks will have only a form and friction.
You should not save on the coil, as the constant loads when lifting heavy loads from the depths will quickly disable a cheap plastic mechanism.
Installation schemes for vertical fishing
The boat donck tool has its own specifications, and the main task is to get the hook and nozzle into the bottom layer and keep it there despite the current. There are several popular schemes that have proven to be the most catchy.
The classic version is this. paternoster It's easy to make, it's great at biting, but in a strong current and deep water, a leash can be more effective, and in that case, the loader is on the bottom, and the hook leash is raised above the bottom, making the bait more visible to the fish.
β οΈ Attention: When using heavy loaders (more than 80 g) at great depth, always use a burst insert or a thinner line on a leash than the main line. Otherwise, with a blank hook, you risk losing all the gear along with the load.
For predators or large white fish, helicopters are often used, and in this scheme, the leash slides freely along the main line above the loader, allowing the fish to feel no resistance to the loader when pecking, which is critical for cautious trophies.
Below is a comparative table of the main equipment elements for different fishing conditions:
| Fishing conditions | Weight loader | Leash type | Length of leash |
|---|---|---|---|
| Standing water, depth to 5m | 30-50 g | Fluorocarbon 0.20 | 40-60 cm |
| Average current, depth 5-8m | 60-80 | Fluorocarbon 0.22 | 50-80 cm |
| Strong current, depth 8m+ | 100-150 g | Wrapped cord 0.12 | 80-120 cm |
| Catfishing (donnac) | 150-200 | Capron thread 0.60+ | 30-50 cm |
Use of use fluorocarbon line Leashes are preferred because they are less visible in water and more resistant to abrasion against shells or stones than regular nylon, and wicker cords are used less frequently as leashes, mainly for active fish or in very strong currents where minimal sailing is important.
Why is fluorocarbon better for leashes?
Fluorocarbon has a light refractive index close to water, making the fishing line almost invisible to fish, and is harder than nylon, which reduces the number of crossovers when casting (although we lower the tackle with our hand more often from a boat) and is more resistant to ultrafietu and chemistry.
Boat preparation and anchoring
Before you start hooking, you need to properly install the boat. The floating platform is unstable, and any movement of the fisherman is transmitted to the tackle. Quality anchoring is the key to success. For bottom fishing, the best way to use two anchors, stretching the boat perpendicular to the current or the wind.
If you're fishing in the river with the current, stand across the jet, and this will allow you to catch a wide strip of bottom just by moving along the side. anchor-false with a burst load exceeding the weight of the anchor, but with the possibility of breaking with a dead hook (or use an anchor buoy).
βοΈ Checklist for boat preparation
It's important to keep the boat in position so it doesn't scour side to side, and even small fluctuations can alert a careful fish, and if the wind and current are in different directions, priority should be given to the current, because it creates more resistance.
Safety is paramount. All gear must be placed so that when a large fish jerks or gets caught, you do not lose your balance, and the hooks must be protected by caps or in a foam block.
Techniques of lowering tackle and finding fish
Unlike shore fishing, where the force throw occurs, the boat tackle is lowered by hand, and this requires a certain skill, especially at depths over 5 meters. The basic principle is that first you lower the loader to the bottom, controlling the tension of the fishing line, and then you give the slack to install the rod.
To find fish effectively in unfamiliar areas, use a sonar. If you're moving slowly on a transom or electric motor, scan the bottom relief, you're interested in the depths, the entrances to the pits, the eyebrows and the individual driftwoods, and if you find a perspective point, you need to anchor upstream.
The process of lowering looks like this:
1. Remove the rod from the rack.
2. Lower the loader overboard and start putting the line down until you feel the bottom touch (the foliage will sag).
3. Raise the tip of the rod and select a slack so that the line is stretched.
4. Place the rod on board or in the holder.
If you're fishing with a feeder full of bait, it's important not to pull the gear when you lower it, so that the feed doesn't fall out in the upper layers of water before it reaches the bottom. You lower it smoothly, but quickly enough so that the current doesn't blow the feeder away from the boat.
Fishing and feeding tactics
Boat fishing is often point-by-point, you're standing over a particular pit or a brow, so feeding should be local, and the use of dump trucks is most justified, and you fill the net with food, you lower it next to the hole, and you shake it periodically to create a stern pole.
If you use a feeder feeder, try to hit the same point every time, and for this, when you're anchored, you can navigate the two wings on the shore, although it's harder to do this from the boat because of pitching, and it's better to just lower the gear vertically down, controlling the depth on the fishing line.
β οΈ Attention: Don't overfeed the dot. In cold water or passive peeling, a lot of food can saturate the fish, and it won't pay attention to your nozzle. Start with small portions.
The frequency of overcasts (or tackle lifts) depends on the activity of the fish. When actively fishing for bream or carp, the interval can be 5-7 minutes. When catching catfish or carp, the tackle can be left for 15-20 minutes, giving the fish time to come and try the bait.
The key to success is to constantly control the tension of the line. In the wave or wind, use harder nods or adjust the friction so that it will slightly surrender at strong jerks of the boat, but hold the fish.
Removing the trophy from the boat
Getting fish off a boat is a separate art. You don't have the ability to step back or step back, like on the shore. All manipulations take place in a confined space. When you cut a large fish (soma, pike, large sazan), the main thing is not to let it go under the boat or into anchor ropes.
Immediately after the cut, raise the rod vertically upwards and start pumping. Only work with the coil when the rod is lowered downwards. If the fish is large, don't force events. Let it "walk" away from the boat so that it gets tired.
To get the fish into the boat, make sure to use a lift. Pulling a large fish with your hands behind a line or a bumper is risky - it can make the last jerk at the side and get off. The feeder should be with a long handle and a large ring so that it can easily start the fish, even if it is deep.
- π£ Always keep the lift ready with one hand holding the handle.
- π£ If the fish has gone under the boat, don't try to pull it vertically upwards -- cut the lip. Take the rod aside, set a direction, and bring the fish out to clean water.
- π£ When catching pike, be sure to use yawning and extractor, as well as protective gloves, to avoid cuts on the predator's teeth.
After successfully lifting the fish, quickly unhook it and release it into the cage or on the kukan. Do not leave the fish on the bottom of the boat without water, this can lead to its death if you plan to release, or to spoil the meat if you keep it.
What if the sleeve gets tangled up?
If you find that the line has wound up on the anchor rope or the parts of the boat, don't pull sharply. Carefully work with the coil, choosing a slack. If the leash gets tangled, it's better to sacrifice it by cutting the knot than risking the entire gear. Have spare leashes to quickly restore the gear.
Which cargo is better to use on a rocky bottom?
On a rocky bottom, flat-shaped or leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-leaf-
Can I catch a donkey from an inflatable boat without a motor?
Of course, you can. PVC inflatable boats are even preferred for such fishing because of their stability and softness (the fish is less afraid of being hit on the side), the lack of a motor allows you to sneak up silently to fish places, the main thing is to secure the rods so that they do not fall overboard when working with oars or anchors.
Installation and fishing with a donkey from a boat is an exciting activity that requires the angler not only knowledge of fish habits, but also good coordination of movements. Properly selected gear, reliable anchoring and safety will turn your fishing into a real holiday full of vivid impressions and worthy trophies.