Fishing from a swimming facility opens up opportunities for fishermen that are not available to shoreliners, allowing them to catch deep pits, bed brows and underwater elevations, but success in this case often depends not so much on the presence of a sonar or a powerful motor, but on properly assembled gear that can work in specific conditions. The fishing rod It is one of the simplest yet most effective tools for catching fish at depths that require minimal equipment and maximum control over the process.
Unlike spinning or feeder, this gear doesn't require long-range throwing, because the hook with the bait goes vertically or at a slight angle directly under the boat. It's verticality of feeding and flow that dictates the rules for selecting the elements of the tooling, where every gram of weight and millimeter of the diameter of the fishing line matter. In this article, we will discuss in detail how to assemble the perfect kit for catching bream, roach, perch and other fish species, taking into account the behavior of fish on board.
Selection of the main whip and handle
The basis of any gear is a rod, and in the case of onboard fishing, the requirements are specific. You do not need a long form, because the fishing distance is limited to the depth under the boat and the length of the overhang of the arm. The optimal length of the whip varies from 60 to 100 centimeters, which allows you to comfortably manage the tackle while sitting on a bank or in a chair. Feeder quivertypes or tops from old telescopic fishing rods are often used as an excellent base for creating your own tool.
The whiplash material must be stiff enough to penetrate the wind and current, but have a sensitive tip to register cautious bites. Fiberglass and carbon Carbon-based options are the most popular materials, with carbon-based options being preferred due to their light weight and high sensitivity. Hands are often made from cork or dense foam so that the tackle does not sink when accidentally falling into the water, which happens quite often when active fishing.
Some anglers prefer to use pre-made short rods, known as "baldas" or specialized sideboards, which already have a built-in nod or place to fit it, and it is important that the handle fits comfortably in the hand and does not slide when wet. It is critical that the rod comet has a fishing line opening or a reliable holder for the coil so that the tackle does not drift away with the fish. The length of the working part should allow you to make an effective cut even in high winds, when the boat is strongly rocking.
Nods and grating alarms
The heart of the fishing rod is the nod, which acts as a shock absorber when playing with bait and a signaler when baiting. In boat conditions, where fish often take carefully, especially bream and roam, the stiffness and length of the nod play a crucial role. lausan and metallic Nods are the standard, and lausan is preferable for fishing on the current because of its elasticity and ability to return to the original position.
The working part of the nod is experimentally selected, but usually 15 to 25 centimeters. A too short nod will make the bait play jiggle, and too long will sail in the wind and become entangled. The angle of inclination of the nod under the weight of the loader should be approximately 45-60 degrees, which ensures the optimal transfer of vibrations to the mormose or hook. Resorbed Timespring models are also popular, especially when catching large fish where a powerful cut is required.
For night fishing or in poor visibility, nods are often equipped with luminous elements or Cambrian bright colors, which allows visual control of the position of the tackle, even at dusk. The design of attaching the nod to the whip must be reliable, often using the method of stretching through a hole in the komb or attachment with a Cambrick and a metal tube. Sensitivity The nod should be balanced with the weight of the loader: the stronger the current, the tougher the alarm is needed.
When fishing at a depth of more than 5 meters, use compound nods that preserve the amplitude of the game even with a large overhang of the fishing line.
Line selection and installation of equipment
The choice of the main line depends on the transparency of the water, the size of the proposed trophy and the fishing conditions. monophile It has good extensibility, which is important when catching fish from depths, and is less noticeable in water than wicker cords. It is used less often, mainly for predator catching or on a very strong current, where maximum sensitivity and no stretching are required.
The installation of the tooling can be deaf or sliding, depending on the activity of the fish and the depth. The classic option involves the main loader, which keeps the gear on the current, and one or more leashes with hooks or mormy up the fishing line, the distance between the hooks is usually 20-30 centimeters so that they do not get confused with each other when playing. Fluorocarbon Leashes 15-20 cm long are used to reduce the visibility of the tooling in clear water.
The color of the fishing line also matters: brown and green shades better mask the tackle against the background of the bottom and water vegetation, while transparent fishing line is universal. When fishing on a rocky bottom where hooks are possible, it is recommended to use a fishing line with a margin of safety or put thinner leashes that will break first, preserving the main loader. Breaking load The main line should be 20-30% higher than that of the leashes, so that only the hook is lost with a dead hook.
☑️ Checking the equipment before exit
Loading and anchoring tackle
A well-chosen cargo boat is the key to successful fishing on the current, it should hold the gear upright or allow it to shift slightly, but not lie on the bottom dead weight, unless you want to catch in the bottom layer. pear-shaped and conical The forms are better at keeping flow, less prone to hooks and more easily break away from the bottom when lifting.
The weight of the loader is selected experimentally depending on the strength of the current and depth. Usually the range is from 20 to 80 grams. For strong jets, special feeders are used, which simultaneously deliver the bait to the fishing point and hold the gear. The design of the loader should allow it to quickly change its weight or shape, for which carbines or fastened rotors are often used. Removable The loader is convenient because it allows you to adapt to changing conditions without tying all the gear.
When fishing at great depths and strong currents, sometimes you use a system of two loaders: the main heavy and the additional light, which slides along the fishing line, which allows you to vary the fishing horizon and the game of bait. Anchorage equipment loader should be reliable, but if necessary, allows you to quickly tear the tooling from the bottom with a jerk.
⚠️ Warning: Never wind the line on your finger when working with heavy loaders on the current - with a sharp jerk or hook, you can get a serious hand injury or lose a finger.
Hooks, snouts and nozzles
The choice of hook depends on the type of nozzle and the size of the mouth of the target fish. To catch a worm, horn or dough, hooks with a long forearm are used, which makes it easier to remove the hook from the depths of the fish's mouth. Materials Hooks must be of high quality to withstand the load when cut at depth and not to blunt on the stones. For plant nozzles and moths, hooks with a short forearm and a wide underdog are preferred.
Mormys are a versatile bait for onboard fishing, combining a loader and a hook. pulp, droplet and squirrel The color of the Mormose is chosen according to the light: in clear weather and shallow waters dark colors work, and in depth and overcast weather - light, golden or fluorescent. The presence of a Cambrick or bead on the forehand of a Mormose hook often provokes fish to attack.
The rod nozzles are the same as the float fishing, but given the depth of delivery, worm, worm, moth, dough, barley all work effectively. When you catch a predator (perch, perch) on the sides, you use bait or artificial baits placed on jig heads. Freshness The nozzles are critical because at depth the fish is more selective and can ignore the sluggish or damaged worm.
| Type of fish | Optimal size of hook | Preferred nozzle | Mormose weight (g) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Breeze | № 10-14 (in international class) | Worm, bundle of wool. | 3-8 |
| Flesh | № 12-16 | Moth, dough, squirrel. | 1-4 |
| Perch | № 8-12 | Worm, baby, mormy. | 2-6 |
| Carp | № 10-14 | Perlivka, worm, bread. | 2-5 |
| Sudak | № 4-8 (offset) | Silicone, bait. | 10-30 |
The secret to catching a sniffle
Often, fish react not to the shape of the mormy but to play, and try adding a small, contrasting-colored cambrick to the forearm hook, which will increase the number of bites by 30 percent.
Fishing techniques and tactics of fish search
The fishing rod is very different from the fishing rod on the shore. There's no need for a long-range throw, the main task is to find the horizon and the point where the fish is standing. Once the gear is lowered to the bottom, the search process begins, which is to slowly climb and lower the loader with a nod at the same time. The amplitude of vibrations should be small, but frequent, simulating the movement of the feed object.
The tactic of finding fish in an unfamiliar place begins with measuring the depths and studying the bottom relief with a sonar or simple load measurement. If you find a depth difference, an eyebrow or a pit, you should anchor the boat across the stream and feed the point. The bait is delivered by a dump truck feeder or thrown with balls depending on the strength of the current. Concentration Fish at the point of fishing significantly increases the efficiency of gear.
Fishing on the current often uses the "truck" tactic, where the gear is released downstream until the line is pulled and then smoothly pulled back, which allows you to catch a large area of the bottom without moving the boat. It is important to constantly monitor the nod, since the bite on the flow can only be expressed in a slight tremor or stop the nod. Slashing. It should be short and sharp to penetrate the hard lip of the fish and fix it on the hook.
The secret to success is to constantly experiment with the fishing horizon, and if you don't have a cool spot at the bottom, raise the gear by 50 cm or 1 meter -- fish often stand in the floes.
⚠️ Warning: When fishing from a boat, always keep a yawner and extractor on hand to quickly and safely extract hooks, especially if you are fishing deep-swallowed fish, such as perch or pike.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How long should the line be on the side fishing rod?
The length of the fishing line should exceed the maximum depth at the fishing site by 3-5 meters. This reserve is necessary for maneuvering, catching fish and compensating for rocking the boat. Usually 15-20 meters of fishing line with a diameter of 0.16-0.20 mm are wound on the coil.
Can I use spinning for onboard fishing?
Yes, you can use short spinning or telescopic rods up to 1 meter long, the main requirement is the presence of a sensitive nod or the ability to install it on the top, as the standard tip of the spinning can be too rigid to register careful bream or roach bites.
Which bait is better to use for the bait?
For onboard fishing, the bait must be heavy and sticky so it doesn't get washed away instantly. It works well with mixtures of clay or soil, and also large fractions (steamed wheat, barley, chopped worm) that keep the fish at a point. It is important that the smell is strong, because at depth and flow the scent spreads more slowly.
Do I need a sip when fishing with a rod?
When fishing from a boat, the suction is often replaced with a bumper or simply pulled the fish out by the fishing line (size permitting), but for large fish (bream, sarga) a small suction with a short handle is mandatory. It prevents the tackle from breaking off at the board itself and helps to safely lift the trophy into the boat without risking overturning.