Fishing comfort is not just a bonus, it is a key to productive pastime and maintaining back health. Whispers or KazanThey're not designed for hours of sitting, and the lack of a rigid support and a fixed back makes the angler constantly look for a comfortable position, which distracts from the fishing process itself. seat in a PVC boat yourself with your back It becomes a priority for any owner of the boat, who values comfort.
Self-manufactured designs can take into account individual anthropometrics and the specifics of your boat. You can choose the optimal landing height, back angle and type of upholstery that will not slide on clothing. In addition, homemade construction is often cheaper than factory counterparts when using available materials such as moisture-resistant plywood and marine fittings. It is important to follow the material processing technology so that the product lasts for years without fear of moisture and temperature changes.
In this article, we will discuss in detail all the steps in creating an ergonomic fishing spot, from choosing a wood range to finishing paint and installing fasteners. Security And the reliability of the structure comes first, so we're going to focus on wood protection and fastener selection, and not only will the finished seat increase comfort, but it will also add functionality to the boat if you have a gearbox.
Selection of materials and preparation of tools
The foundation of a quality product is the right choice of raw materials. The main material for the frame is traditionally plywood, but not any one is suitable for use in aggressive aquatic environments. plywood (Phenol formaldehyde), which has increased moisture resistance, or, ideally, plywoodThe use of conventional FC plywood (carbamide) is unacceptable, as it will quickly dissipate under the influence of moisture, even if it is coated with paint.
To upholster the seat and back, you need to find a material that is resistant to ultraviolet light, salt water and mechanical damage. Oxford It is best to use a high-density foam (HR or EL) at least 40-50 mm thick as a filler to ensure comfort on a long trip. A regular foam will doubt too quickly and lose shape.
⚠️ Attention: Never use chipboard or MDF for the frame. These materials are hygroscopic and lose strength instantly when wet, which can lead to a breakage of the seat directly on the water and the angler falls overboard.
You'll need a standard set of joinery tools to work with: a clean-cutting jigsaw, a grinder or a set of sandpaper of different grains, a roulette and a coal mine. The best way to build a frame is to use stainless steel screws or brass screws, because the black metal will rust in the first season of use. Also prepare a wood glue (PVA D3 or D4) and a two-component epoxy glue for fixing metal elements.
Design and creation of drawing
Before you get to the saw, you need to create a detailed drawing. The size of the seat depends on the dimensions of your boat and the number of seats you want. The standard width of one seat is 45-50 cm, and the depth of the seat is 35-40 cm. The height of the backrest usually varies from 30 to 40 cm, which provides sufficient support for the waist and shoulder blades. It is important to determine in advance the type of attachment: whether it is a removable bench, lying on the board, or a stationary structure, attached to the transom or the bottom.
When designing, consider that the seat should have a slight backward slant (about 5-10 degrees) for physiologically correct body position. The back should also be angled so as not to put excessive pressure on the spine. If you plan to make a box under the seat, its height should be such that the lid (the seat itself) is at 40-45 cm from the bottom of the boat. This is the optimal height for working with gear.
At the design stage, it is also necessary to think about the system. ergonomicsThe seat should not rest against the hamstrings, so the front edge should be rounded or cut at an angle. fisherman Put all the dimensions on paper to within millimeters, because a geometry error can cause the structure to sway and make it uncomfortable to operate.
Disclose details and finishing ends
The manufacturing process begins with a neat cut of plywood according to your drawing. When working with an electro-cloth, try to keep the file flat without piling the tool so that the end is perpendicular to the plane of the sheet. If you use a saw, make sure that there are no chips on the front side. To minimize defects, you can paste paint tape on the cutting line, and use the file with the reverse direction of the tooth.
Once the ends are cut, the plywood needs to be carefully treated, and it's through the open pores at the ends that the moisture gets in the material most quickly, the ends need to be ground with coarse sandpaper, removing all the burrs, and then soaked with epoxy or special wood soil, which will create a reliable barrier to water. The side walls that will be hidden under the upholstery can be treated less carefully, but the protection of the ends is mandatory.
For perfect plywood end treatment, use a mixture of epoxy resin with wood dust (residues from grinding) – this will create a strong putty that is easy to grind after drying.
The frame is best assembled on dry, using rods to fix the parts. Make sure all angles are straight and diagonals are equal. Use wooden bars or metal corners at joints to strengthen the structure. If the seat provides for a box, the internal partitions must also be securely fixed. Don't skimp on the fastener - vibration as the boat moves along the wave creates significant loads on the connections.
Frame assembly and reinforcement
The final assembly is done using glue and screws. PVA D3 or PVA D4 On the connected surfaces, tightly press the parts and pull them together with screws. Self-tapping hats should be melted into the body of the tree by 1-2 mm, so that these places are subsequently closed with a putty. To make the back stiff, if it does not rely on a transom, you can install diagonal struts or use plywood of greater thickness (at least 12-15 mm).
Pay special attention to the seat attachment components to the boat hull. If it is a removable bench, it should have cutouts or stops that prevent slipping from the side cylinders. squirt-bolt or clampAll metal attachments must be made of stainless steel grade AISI 304 or AISI 316 to avoid corrosion.
☑️ Frame assembly steps
After assembly of the entire structure, allow the glue to dry completely within the time specified by the manufacturer (usually 24 hours). Then test the seat for strength, applying a static load exceeding the weight of a person. If you hear crackling or see deformation, the structure must be reinforced with additional bars or remodel the joints. Reliability is the main criterion for any equipment used on water.
Wood protection and painting
Wood, even moisture-resistant plywood, requires additional protection for long-term service in high humidity. Before painting, the entire surface must be primed. Alkyd soils or special yacht primers are great for this. The ground fills the pores of the tree and provides adhesion to the finishing surface. It is better to apply it with a brush, carefully rubbed into the surface, especially in screw screws.
As a finishing cover is best used. yacht-varnish The lacque emphasizes the texture of the tree (if you used a beautiful plywood with a visible pattern), but requires updating every 1-2 seasons. Enamel creates a stronger and opaque coating that hides all the build defects and is easier to maintain. Apply the coating in 2-3 thin layers, waiting for the complete drying of each previous one.
| Materials of coating | Resistance to UV | Moisture resistance | Difficulty of application |
|---|---|---|---|
| Yacht lacquer | High. | High. | Medium |
| epoxy enamel | Very high. | Very high. | High. |
| Oil for wood | Medium | Medium | Low. |
| Acrylic paint | Low. | Low. | Low. |
And remember, the ends and the places of the saws, you have to paint them very carefully. If you're planning to operate the boat in salt water intensively, you might consider sticking the outer surfaces with fiberglass with epoxy, and this would create a shell that would completely eliminate the contact of wood with water, although it would add weight to the product. But for most anglers, a good 3-4 layer painting is quite enough.
Manufacture of soft seats and upholstery
The comfort of the seat depends on the quality of the upholstery cake. A layer of foam is laid on the prepared wooden base. For durability, it is recommended to use a composition of hard foam (base) and soft (top layer, 1-2 cm). The foam is cut exactly to the shape of the seat with a small tolerance or size if glue is used. It is best to fix it with aerosol foam glue that creates a strong and elastic joint.
The tightening is done by fabric Oxford It's at least 600 den. The fabric is pulled over the base and shot with a furniture stapler on the back. It's important to tighten the material so that there are no folds that will rub the clothes. The seams can be further glued with waterproof sealant. If you have sewing skills, it's better to sew a removable zipper case, so you can wash the fabric and change the filler as needed.
The Secret to Long-Term Upholstery
Use a 3D mesh material (air mesh) instead of foam. It doesn't absorb water, dries instantly and doesn't rot, although it costs more and requires thick material skills.
To give an aesthetic appearance, the edges of the upholstery can be wrapped in a plastic profile or a cane, and at this stage, you can also install additional elements, such as pockets for trifles or mounts for spinning. The finished seat should be pleasant to the touch, not slippery and quickly dry. Check whether the fabric remains wet after immersion in water - this is critical for comfort.
Installation and final inspection
If it's a removable bench, make sure it sits tightly on the cylinders and doesn't shift when you're swaying. Velcro, glued to the cylinder and bottom of the seat, or special belts with carabiners. Stationary seats are attached to the transom or sides using bolt joints. When drilling holes in PVC, be sure to use a special cutting or sharp knife so that you do not damage the threads of the cord of the fabric.
Once installed, do some tests. Get in the boat, sway, simulate the throw of gear. The structure should not creak, stagger or bend. Check if the upholstery does not rub against the side of the boat when moving. If all is well, you can consider the work completed. Regularly inspect the fasteners and the condition of the tree, especially after winter storage.
⚠️ Attention: When installing a seat, watch the boat center. Shifting the center of gravity (for example, placing a heavy seat box on only one side) can adversely affect the performance and stability of the boat on the water.
A handmade seat is a source of pride and comfort, and it allows you to spend the whole day in the water without back pain and fatigue, and with a little time and money invested in materials, you get a product that is often superior in quality to the factory counterparts that sell for a lot of money, the main thing is not to save on materials and to adhere to the technology of moisture protection.
A high-quality seat made of plywood of the FSF with the right upholstery serves 5-7 years even with active operation, recouping the time and money in the first season.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can you use conventional plywood if you cover it with epoxy?
Theoretically, it can, but the risk is great. Plywood FC (carbamide) is glued inside with a less resistant glue than FSF. If the water gets to a microcrack in the epoxy (and they will come from vibration), the plywood will begin to layer from the inside. It is better to take a moisture-resistant brand immediately, so as not to redo the work in a year.
What thickness should a fishing foam be?
The optimal thickness is 50 mm. Less than 40 mm you will feel the wooden base through clothing, especially on the bumps or when shaking the boat. More than 60 mm should not be done - this will unnecessarily increase the dimensions and can disrupt the ergonomics of the landing.
How to attach the seat to the PVC cylinder, so as not to damage the boat?
The best option is to use special PVC-tissue quilts that stick to the balloon and then screw bolts or locks in, and mounts on Velcro straps or belts that cover the balloon are also popular, because they don't require drilling.
Do I need to take off my seat for the winter?
It's desirable, but not necessary, if it's done well. If the seat stays in the boat, make sure that the storage room is well ventilated. It's not so much the cold that it's the condensation and lack of airing that causes mold to become harmful to the tree.