The process of preparing a boat for the outlet often begins with the question of how to properly and quickly get into the boat to ensure maximum rigidity. Many beginners underestimate the importance of proper styling of the bottom, believing that it is enough to just throw plywood sheets inside the inflated cylinder. However, it is how smooth and securely styled slate depends not only on the comfort of movement, but also the stability of the boat on the wave, and the durability of the material itself.
Incorrect assembly can lead to deformation of the bottom, the appearance of folds that are rubbed over time, or even to a shift in the center of gravity. In this article, we will examine in detail the algorithm of actions for different types of decking, from simple rack to complex soldering, and explain why the sequence of actions plays a crucial role here.
Types of flooring and their design features
Before you start assembling, you need to clearly understand what type of bottom you are dealing with, since the technology of laying heavily Manufacturers use different solutions to ensure rigidity, and each requires a different approach, and mishandling a particular type of decking can lead to locks breaking or cylinder damage.
The simplest option is a rack bottom, which is often found in budget models or small boats, and it consists of separate wooden or aluminum slats, held together by a strong fabric base. It does not require complex assemblyIt's enough to spread it inside the boat, but it doesn't provide a perfectly flat surface and it's less rigid than whole sheets.
A more advanced solution is a plywood floor, which consists of separate plywood or aluminum boards connected by special profiles. It is for structures like slugs in a boat that the issue is most acute. The plates can be connected through a slug. H-shaped profile Or put into pockets, and the hardness is achieved by a bursting system, where the assembled floor is placed against the sides, creating a monolithic structure.
- 🚣 Rack flooring: flexible, dry quickly, but less stable on planing.
- 🏗️ Pied flooring (plywood/aluminum): provides excellent rigidity, suitable for the installation of powerful motors.
- 🛡️ inflatable floor of NDND: does not require assembly, but is characterized by high sailing and sensitivity to punctures.
There are also combination options where part of the bottom is rigid and part is inflatable, and in such cases it is important to observe the pumping and laying order, so as not to damage the partitions. Strength of construction directly affects the speed of access to the planing and controllability of the vessel.
Preparation of boats and tools for assembly
Well-designed assembly is impossible without proper preparation of the site and the boat itself. Before you start sloshing into the boat, you need to make sure that the surface on which it is laid out is clean and dry. The presence of small stones, branches or sharp debris can lead to punctures of the fabric at the most inopportune moment when the cylinders are already partially pumped.
The best scenario is to assemble on a flat site without extreme temperature changes. If you're on the shore of a body of water, try to choose a place away from the water line to avoid getting sand and dirt inside the valves or between layers of fabric. Dirt caught between the sludge and the balloon works like an abrasive, gradually destroying the material as it frictions.
Of the tools, you may only need a pump, however for complex soldering systems it is sometimes helpful to have one on hand. rubber-stick You can also check for all the mounting elements, slings, belts, or locks that come with the kit, and not even one element can make the assembly impossible or unsafe.
⚠️ Warning: Never start assembly on hot asphalt or concrete on a hot day. A heated surface can damage PVC fabric, and hot air inside cylinders when cooled in the evening will reduce pressure.
Step by step: how to take a boat with a floorboard bottom
So, the piedole floor assembly is a process that requires careful and consistent action, and if you just throw the sheets in, they may be thrown in early or they may not close tightly, and you need to pump the cylinders to the operating pressures specified in the product's passport, and only on the hard sides can you correctly assess the geometry of the bottom.
Once the boat has taken shape, turn it upside down or gently straighten the interior space. Start laying it on the bow. The first piece of paiola should fit tightly into the transom or bow bulkhead. The subsequent sheets are inserted into the profiles of the previous ones or joined together. It is important to make sure that the connections are smooth and do not form "steps".
☑️ Paiola assembly algorithm
During the laying process, it may be necessary to lift the sides to straighten the fabric under the sleigh. The fabric should lie flat.If you feel that the last leaf is not fitting, do not try to push it by force - most likely, the previous sheets have become crooked or the fabric has lost its way in a lump in the far corner.
When all the sheets are laid, you need to fix the flooring, and this uses special belts or slings that are put through cylinders and attached to opposite sides. The tension of these belts creates a "string" effect, making the bottom as hard as possible. In some models, the last sheet has special stops that are fixed in the bow of the boat.
| Assembly stage | Action. | Sign of reference |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Preparation | Pumping cylinders | Pressure 0.2-0.25 atm (or according to instructions) |
| 2. Laying | Trans plate installation | Tight fit without gaps |
| 3. Fixation | Sling tension | Uniform tension throughout the length |
| 4. Verification | Visual examination | Absence of bloating under the bottom |
What to do if the pyeol does not stand in place?
If the last sheet doesn't fit, try blowing the cylinders out a little (10-15%), moving the flooring, and then pumping the boat, sometimes helping to gently lift the sides and straighten the cloth under the deck, pulling it from the center to the edges.
Nuances of rack and inflatable flooring
If your boat is equipped with a rack bottom on a fabric basis, the process is much simplified, but has its own subtleties, this type of flooring is usually laid immediately after partial pumping of cylinders, when the boat is already in shape, but still quite soft. Rack-bottom rolls inside the cockpit, and it is important to make sure that the edges of the fabric are not infringed between the cylinders and seats.
For an inflatable floor (BBB), the question of "like a sludge in a boat" is transformed into a question of the right pumping sequence. The boat is always pumped first, then the bottom. If you pump the bottom sooner, it can deform the hull or burst when the cylinders are blown up, and the pressure in the inflatable floor is usually lower than in the cylinders, and is about 0.2 atm.
- 🌬️ Sequence: First the side, then the bottom (for NDNDM).
- 📉 Pressure: Control the pressure gauge so that the sections are not pumped.
- 🧘♂️ Spreading: After pumping, walk along the bottom to straighten the internal partitions.
Some boat models require additional rigid inserts (stringers) in special pockets on the sides, which add additional rigidity and prevent the sides from cruising when moving, and the stringers are installed until the cylinders are fully pumped, while the fabric is elastic.
⚠️ Warning: When operating a rack-bottomed boat, avoid sudden movements and jumps. The rack bottom is less resistant to point loads than the pile-bottomed one and may shift, leading to loss of balance.
Typical errors in the assembly of flooring
One of the most common mistakes is to try to assemble a boat at speed without straightening the fabric. Folding fabric under hard floorboard is a guaranteed way to quickly wear and wipe the bottom. Water caught between the layers freezes in winter or simply creates foci of decay if the boat is not dried. Smooth surface - the guarantee of long service of your boat.
The second mistake is to ignore the straps, and many people think it's easy to insert the sheets into the profiles, but on water, especially when the wave is passing, the unattached floorboard can start to walk, shift, or even jump out of the profiles, which will create an emergency situation.
Use talc to treat the inside of the boat before laying the paiola. talc will reduce friction, make it easier to straighten the folds and protect the fabric from sticking together in hot weather.
There is also a common misassembly error: Trying to insert floorboards into a fully pumped boat may be physically impossible without the risk of damaging the seams; and conversely, trying to pump a boat with the floorboard already inserted but not straightened will cause the structure to skew.
Safety and care of the elements of the bottom
Proper maintenance of the deck prolongs the life of the boat. After each step, especially in shallow water or overgrown areas, you need to check the bottom of the boat for damage. Piolas protect the bottom, but are not armor. Rocks and driftwood can damage cylinders in places not covered by decking.
When storing the boat assembled (which is not recommended for a long time) keep a humidity check. If you remove the boat wet, plywood floorboards can swell and deform, and aluminum floorboards can oxidize in contact with water. Perfect storage - this is disassembly, drying and packaging in a cover in a dry room.
Regular check of profiles and floorboard fasteners will prevent sudden destruction of the bottom during operation on water.
Remember to wash the profiles and locks with fresh water, especially after swimming in salt water. The salt crystallizes and can bite the moving parts of the compounds, making the next assembly extremely difficult. Lubricating the rubbing parts with silicone grease will also make it easier for you to sank into the boat next time.
Can I use a boat if one of the floorboard sheets is broken?
It is highly recommended to use a boat with a damaged floorboard element, disrupting the geometry of the bottom, the load is redistributed to adjacent whole sheets and cylinders, which can cause them to break, and the sharp edge of broken plywood can damage the fabric of the boat from the inside.
How often should I change the bottom of the plyol?
When properly operated and stored, the pitting bottom lasts as long as the boat itself (10-15 years), and only requires replacement if mechanical damage (cracks, plywood stratification, broken profiles) or severe deformation violates tightness or geometry.
Do I need to lubricate the profiles before assembly?
No special lubrication is required, but the cleanliness of the profiles is mandatory. The sand and dirt act as abrasive. If the profiles are tight, check them for debris. In rare cases, dry silicone lubricant can be used, but avoid oils that can corrode PVC or rubber.
What if the pyeol swelled "house"?
If the floorboard is swelling, then the assembly technology is broken: either the fabric under it is not straightened, or the latching belts / slings are not stretched, you need to lower the boat, re-sweep the flooring, carefully straighten all the folds of the fabric and re-strengthen the fixation system.