Trolling is radically different from the classic spinning, and the requirements for tackles here are dictated by completely different operating conditions. Boat trolling rod It has to withstand constant static loads from the wobbler or scintillating, and also sharp jerks when wiring on the wave. Many beginners make the mistake of using lightweight jig spinnings that quickly fail under the pressure of a trolling wobbler giant or a deep-sea downrigger.
The main task of such a rod is not just to throw the bait, but to ensure its stable play at a given depth and speed, as well as reliably cushion the jerks of large fish. Specialized models They have a reinforced design of the form and fittings, which allows them to last for years even when used aggressively. In this article, we will discuss all the nuances that will help you avoid costly mistakes when assembling an arsenal.
Key specifications of trolling rods
When choosing a tool, first of all, you need to pay attention to the bait-testFor trolling, this parameter is often indicated not in grams, but in pounds (lb), or simply by recommendations for the type of baits. Spinning must have a margin of power to “push” the resistance of water at great depths, but also have sufficient sensitivity to control the game of the wobblear.
The second critical parameter is form-workUnlike jig fishing, where you need a quick topping up, it's more common. Fast or ModerateThis is necessary so that when a boat is braking sharply or a trophy is jerked, the form extinguishes the inertia of the heavy bait, preventing fish from coming down and breaking the gear. Hard "colas" work poorly here, as they create unnecessary stress on the fishing line and the lips of the predator.
When choosing a trolling rod, always take a test margin of 20-30% of the weight of your heaviest bait, as water resistance increases significantly at speed.
The third aspect is rod-lengthThe optimal range is 2.10-2,40 meters. Longer models can get confused when catching boats in limited space, and shorter ones (less than 1.80 m) do not provide the necessary lever to control bait and cushioning of jerks. However, shorter, more powerful sticks are sometimes used for deep-sea trolling with downriggers.
It is also important to consider the material of the handle. EVA (foam rubber) is preferable to cork in marine conditions or when actively fishing in the heat, because it does not absorb moisture, fish mucus and is easier to wash, and the cork, although pleasant tactile, can break down over time from constant contact with salt water or aggressive cleaning agents.
Rings and Reel Holder: What to Look at
The fittings are the weak spot of any tackle, and in trolling it experiences enormous loads. The pass rings should be made of aluminum oxide or, ideally, of aluminum oxide. SiC They are resistant to rubbing with a wicker cord, which is the main tool of the troller, cheap ceramic-sprayed rings are quickly wiped, and then the line begins to "crack" and break.
The number of rings also matters. Trolling rods often have more rings than spinning rods of the same length, which ensures more uniform distribution of loads across the form during the wiring and wiring, turning the stick into a single arc, rather than a broken line.
Why do rings break on trolling?
The main reason is the use of low-quality wicker cords or damaged sections of the cord that work like a saw, and the rings suffer from impacts on the side of the boat and improper stacking of the cord on the spoole (overflow).
The coil holder must be screwed, reliable and made of quality materials resistant to corrosion. Metallic elements The reel holder must have an anti-corrosion coating, especially if you plan to fish in salt water. Plastic latches, popular in spinning models, are not welcome in trolling due to the risk of spontaneous disclosure under the vibration of the motor.
- 🔍 Look for rings on high legs - this improves the removal of the cord from the form.
- ⚓ Check the reliability of the rings before each fishing.
- 🌊 Prefer the Fuji, Shimano or SeaGuide fittings.
Materials of forms: graphite, fiberglass or composite?
The choice of material form directly affects the behavior of the tackle in water and its durability. Graphite (carbon) rods are light, light, and sensitive, but they are also the most fragile. Carelessly hitting the side or falling on the hard floor of a boat can split the carbon. But for sports trolling, where every gram of weight and tactile control is important, carbon remains king.
Plastic glass The Fiberglass models are much heavier, but they are phenomenal survivability, they are almost impossible to break in normal use, they extinguish fish jerks perfectly and are ideal for beginners or for installation on board inflatable boats, where the risk of hitting the balloon is very high, the disadvantage is low sensitivity and heavy weight, which tires the hand with frequent overthrows (although in pure trolling throws are rare).
The middle ground is composite These rods retain some of the sensitivity of the carbon fiber, but they become more durable and flexible, and they are often used in specialized trolling series from leading manufacturers.
When choosing a material, you should also consider storage conditions. Carbon is afraid of ultraviolet light and temperature changes a little more than fiberglass. If you leave the gear in the boat in the open sun in the parking lot, fiberglass or a quality composite will last longer without losing properties.
Equipment: cords, line and leashes
For trolling is most often used thread-cordIts main advantage is zero extensibility, which allows you to feel the touch of the bait of the bottom and the structure of the wiring over long distances. In addition, the wicker has a smaller diameter at the same burst load, which reduces sailing and allows the bait to sink better.
However, there is a nuance: when fishing for deep-sea wobblers with active play, sometimes put fluorocarbon Fluoroboard stretches less than a monophile but more than a wicker, which helps smooth out the wobbles at high speed. Monophile fishing line is rarely used, mainly for baits that require strong tension to play.
The lead should be rigid and reliable. For pike required string or titanium leashes or thick fluorocarbon (from 0.6 mm). in trolling, the load on the point of connection of the leash with the main line is high, so the knots must be tested and the vertebrae - powerful, size 3-4 according to the classification of Owner or Gamakatsu.
The wicker cord is the standard for trolling, but don’t forget to put a shock leader made of fluorocarbon 1-1.5 meters long to protect against pike teeth and stealth tackle.
The table below compares the main types of fishing lines for different trolling conditions:
| Type of cord | Extensibility | Strength | Best application |
|---|---|---|---|
| The wicket (PE) | Minimum | High. | Deep-sea trolling, bottom control |
| fluorocarbon | Medium | Medium | Catching cautious fish, clear water |
| Nylon (Monophile) | High. | Low. | Superficial trolling, crooks |
| Steel leash. | Missing. | Very high. | Protection from pike and pike teeth |
Checking and adjusting the gear before exiting
Before you get on the water, you need to conduct an audit of the gear. Visual examination The first rule is chipping and cracking forms, and even a microscopic defect on carbon under the load of the rod can cause the rod to break at the most inopportune moment.
Check the friction brake of the coil. It should work smoothly, without jerking. In trolling, the friction is often left slightly weakened so that when you hook the snag you can pull the bait out without breaking the gear, or that the large fish does not break the cord on the first jerk.
☑️ Pre-start test gear
It is important to check. balancing If the rod is very nose-feeding, the arm will get tired quickly, especially when you're getting out, you can move the coil a little forward or backward, or you can use a heavier/lighter model if you need to.
⚠️ Warning: Never leave the rods in a charged state (with a strained cord and bait installed) unattended in the heat. Heating the form and constant load can lead to irreversible deformation ("fatigue") of the material.
Safety and storage techniques
Water safety is priority number one. The rods must be securely secured in the holders. tether For coils and rods, especially on fast boats, under heavy braking, loose gear can fly overboard or, worse, injure passengers.
Storing gear requires the right approach. After fishing, especially in salt water, you need to wipe the forms and rings with a wet cloth, removing salt and sand, it is better to store rods in an upright position or in horizontal pencil cases, but in no case in a curved state under the load of other things.
How to properly wash the rod?
Use warm water with mild soap. Avoid aggressive chemicals and solvents that can damage the lacquer coating of the form and the glue holding the rings.
When you're in a boat, try to position your gear so that you don't step on it and you don't go down the bottom, and the best option is to have special tubes or soft-cell organizers. mechanical - the main reason for the failure of expensive trolling "sticks".
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Can a spinning rod be used for trolling?
Yes, it can, if it meets the test and formation requirements, but specialized trolling models are more robust and better able to withstand constant load, and conventional spinning can quickly "tire" and lose track.
How long should a trolling rod be on a small boat?
For PVC inflatable boats or small aluminum boats, the optimal length is 1.80-2,10 meters, which will allow you to comfortably manage the gear in a tight space and minimize the risk of hooks on the sides or the engine.
Should the friction be weakened when the boat stops?
Yes, at long stops or anchoring, it is better to loosen the friction to relieve the static load from the form and bearings of the coil caused by the current or wind acting on the cord.
Why does the top (tulip) of the trolling rod break?
This is most often due to the cord overhang when throwing (if it is practiced) or a sharp jerk when cutting empty gear, and tulips suffer from blows against tree branches when moving along the shore or about the part of the boat.