Fishing with modern navigation equipment is transformed from a simple hobby into a high-tech process of finding fish. sonar It is often a challenge because the rigid squirrel of the motor creates powerful vibrations and turbulent water flows. Incorrect installation of the transducer can lead to noise on the screen, loss of signal at high speeds or even damage to the device itself.
Unlike metal or fiberglass boats, where the sensor can be cut into the hull or used through mounting, PVC It requires a more delicate and flexible approach, and you have to consider the specifications of inflatable tubes, the risk of puncture and the need for rapid dismantling of the structure. It is critically important to understand that the sensor should be submerged in water to a depth of at least 30-40 cm from the bottom, but not to protrude beyond the dimensions of the transom by more than 2-3 cm to avoid impacts on bottom obstacles.
In this article, we will discuss in detail all stages of installation, from the selection of the location to the final setting. Garmin or LowranceYou will learn how to avoid cavitation bubbles, which are the main enemy of echolocation, and how to securely fix the equipment so that it does not become a burden during active recreation on the water.
Choosing the optimal location for installation of a transducer
The first and most important step is to define the installation area, where the water under the bottom of the boats moves unevenly. transducer It's got to be in the laminar flow zone, and if you put it too close to the motor, the propeller will create air bubbles that will shield the signal, and if it's too far in the side, the sensor can catch air when the boat rolls in the corners.
The ideal place is considered to be the zone between the engine and the central axis of symmetry of the boat, but with a shift in the direction opposite to the direction of rotation of the screw (usually starboard, when viewed from the stern, since the screws most often rotate clockwise). PVC boats Added a limitation: you can not attach the sensor directly to the inflatable cylinder because of its mobility, fastening should be carried out on a rigid element - a false bort, floorboard or a special bracket on the transom.
There are several common layout schemes, each of which has its own specifications:
- π On the transom board: The most popular option, the sensor is mounted on a movable bracket next to the engine's lower unit, which allows you to adjust the depth of immersion.
- π floorboard tap: requires cutting holes in the plywood floor, the sensor is fixed rigidly, but requires sealing and protection from below.
- π Removable bracket on the cylinder: fastening to the inflated part through soft spacers, suitable only for low speeds and calm water.
β οΈ Attention: Never place the sonar sensor in close proximity to drain valves or cylinder seams. Vibration from the engine can damage the integrity of the PVC fabric at the place where the rigid element is attached.
Necessary tools and materials for work
Before you start drilling or bonding, you need to prepare the entire arsenal of tools, and the quality of installation depends on how carefully the connections and gasket are made. cable-channelTo work with PVC and electronics, you will need specific materials that will ensure the durability of the structure in an aggressive aqueous environment.
Pay special attention to the choice of adhesives and sealants. Conventional silicone may not withstand constant temperature changes and ultraviolet radiation. Tear Aid Or two-part polyurethane sealants that retain elasticity after drying, and the wires must be shielded so that the tips from the engine ignition system do not interfere with the device screen.
The basic list of tools and consumables is as follows:
- π§ A drill or screwdriver with a set of drills (including metal drills and wood).
- π§ Special glue for PVC and degreasing (acetone or alcohol).
- π§ Cable channels, screeds, tape and shrink tubes to protect the connections.
- π§ Multimeter to check circuit integrity and voltage in the onboard network.
If you plan to do through-the-floorboard mounting, make sure that the thickness of the plywood allows you to install the flush sensor. Otherwise, you will need to make a lining or use an elongated rod. All metal fasteners (bolts, nuts, washers) must be made of stainless steel AISI 316 to avoid corrosion from salt water.
Use silicone lubricant for cable sealing rings when passing through the holes β this will prevent water from flowing inside the boat via wire.
Sensor fastening methods: comparison and analysis
There are several proven ways to record transducer The choice of method depends on the design of your boat, the frequency of use and budget, each option has its advantages and disadvantages, which must be weighed before starting work.
The easiest way to implement this is to attach to a suction cup or Velcro, but for boats with motors it is absolutely not suitable because of high speed loads. (water flow) will simply disrupt such a sensor. So we will only consider reliable mechanical fixation methods that guarantee a stable signal even when moving against the current.
Comparative table of the main fastening methods:
| Mounting method | Difficulty of installation | Reliability | Impact on the boat |
|---|---|---|---|
| The bracket on the transom | Low. | High. | Minimum (removable) |
| floorboard ink. | Medium | Very high. | Violation of gender integrity |
| Fixing to the cylinder | High. | Medium | Risk of PVC damage |
| Removable bar (hand bar) | Low. | Low (for motor) | Missing. |
The transom bracket is the gold standard for motorboats, which allows you to quickly remove the sensor after fishing, which reduces the risk of theft and damage during transportation. The floorboard insert gives the best sonar picture, since the sensor is always in water and is not affected by the air bubbles from the propeller, but requires a stationary solution.
β οΈ Attention: When choosing a method of attachment, consider the length of the cable. You can build up the sonar cable, but each connection is a potential point of signal loss and moisture penetration. Better use a standard length or a quality factory extension cord.
The Secret to the Perfect Signal
Why does a sensor that's embedded in a floorboard do better? Because there's no air between the emitter and the water, and the boat's hull doesn't vibrate as much as the remote bracket, but at speeds above 15 km/h, the propeller bubbles can still block the signal if the sensor is too close to the motor.
Step by step: installation on the transom board
This method is the most universal and suitable for 90% of use cases. motorboatIt does not require any disruption to the integrity of the cylinders and floor, and also makes it easy to adjust the position of the sensor depending on the boat's load.
First, you need to buy or make a special bracket, and there are universal models with adjustable angles, and it's important that the bracket is attached to the hard part of the transom, not the soft inflatable part, and if there is no hard transom, there is a special transom hanging, but it's less stable.
Algorithm of actions during installation:
- Mark the place of attachment on the transom board, stepping away from the lower unit engine 15-20 cm to the side.
- Drill holes under the fasteners bolts using a drill of suitable diameter.
- Install the bracket, be sure to use rubber pads between the metal and PVC/plywood to quench vibrations.
- Lock the sensor on the bracket so that its working surface is parallel to the bottom of the boat.
βοΈ Installation check
Once installed, be sure to check the system in shallow water. Experiment with the depth of the sensor immersion. If vertical white stripes appear on the screen or the signal disappears at speed, try lowering the sensor lower or moving it further away from the motor. Cavitation - the main enemy, and you need to fight it with a change in the geometry of the installation.
Cable laying and connection to the on-board network
Proper cable laying is not just a matter of aesthetics, but also of safety. Hanging wires can be accidentally cut, hooked by tackles or damaged by passengers' feet. In addition, careless wiring poses the risk of short circuit, which is especially dangerous when combined with water and gasoline vapors.
The cable from the sensor should be led along the side, fixing it with special clips or plastic clamps. In places of passage through holes in the sides or transoms, be sure to use sealer Or carefully seal the passage with silicone, so don't let the loops form where water can accumulate.
The power connection is via a fuse. Even if the head unit has built-in protection, an additional fuse in the power supply chain (usually 3-5 Amps) will save the wiring in the event of a circuit. Use only copper wires with a cross section of at least 1.5 mm2 for power to avoid a voltage drop over long distances.
The main rule of electrics on the boat: all connections must be either soldered and filled with heat shrinkage with glue, or made through moisture-proof terminal pads.
Setting up the sounder and eliminating interference
After the physical installation, there's a software setup phase. Humminbird or GarminThe basic setting includes the choice of radiation frequency (usually 200 kHz for depths up to 50 meters) and sensitivity.
If you see a lot of βnoiseβ on the screen (colored dots that do not correspond to the bottom relief), try to reduce sensitivity (see below).Sensitivity) or activate the noise reduction mode (Noise RejectionIt is also important to adjust the screen refresh rate correctly (Chart Speed): too high speed will blur the image, too low - will not give a detailed picture.
Frequent problems and their solution:
- π The signal is lost at speed: The sensor captures air, so the solution is to lower it deeper or move it away from the propeller.
- π Double bottom: The signal bounces off the surface and comes back, so the solution is to reduce sensitivity or depth range.
- π Constant noise: Interference from the engine or charging the phone, solution: check the grounding, remove the sources of interference away from the antenna.
β οΈ Attention: Don't leave the sounder on land with the emitter running. Ultrasonic waves don't disperse in the air and can damage the sensor crystal due to overheating. Always check that the sensor is submerged in water before power is turned on.
night fishing
If you fish at night, keep the screen lights to a minimum. The bright light of the sonar knocks your eyes off and scares the careful fish away in the clear water on the side.
Can I use a sounder in winter if the ice is already up?
You can't use a standard submersible sensor through the ice, because the signal won't pass through the ice, but you can make a hole and lower the sensor there, or you can use special winter axe sensors that are applied to the bottom edge of the ice with water.
Why does the sonar show fish where there is none?
It could be a thermocline (the edge of water at different temperatures) or a cluster of plankton, and it could be methane bubbles coming up from the bottom, and experienced anglers tell them apart by the shape of the arc and the density of the color.
Do I need to remove the sensor after every fishing trip?
It's desirable, especially if the boat is kept outdoors, the ultraviolet light breaks down the plastic of the sensor body, and in winter, the water residue can freeze and split the emitter, and the removable bracket allows you to quickly dismantle the equipment.
What is the maximum speed allowed for the sounder?
Most household sonars operate at speeds up to 40-50 km/h, but the key is not the speed of the boat, but the lack of cavitation around the sensor.
Does the floorboard material (plywood or aluminum) affect the sounder?
The paiola material doesn't affect the remote sensor, but if the sensor is embedded in the floorboard, the aluminum floor can create additional reflections, but when you set it up correctly, it's compensated by software, and the plywood is more transparent to acoustics.