Choosing the right one lodging It's not just a matter of aesthetics, it's a critical aspect of the safety and durability of the boat, and it's on these supports that the weight of the boat's hull or boat's hull falls during transport, and they are the first to take on vibration and friction, and the wrong material selection can lead to deep scratches, scuffs, and even serious structural damage to the bottom during long haulage.
In todayβs boating world, manufacturers offer a wide range of solutions, from classic hard rubber to modern polymer composites. Understanding the physical and chemical properties of each coating will help you avoid costly boat repairs in the future. In this article, we will discuss in detail the main types of materials, their specifications of operation in different climatic conditions and the nuances of installation.
Do not rely on the universal advice of sellers, as each material has its own unique specifications of interaction with the hull of the vessel. Polyurethane Inserts may be ideal for smooth housings, but they can be harmful for certain types of coatings under certain conditions.
Classical hard rubber: time-tested classics
Traditional rubber-sponges The most common choice among boat trailer owners for decades is made of a special rubber mixture that provides the necessary hardness to hold the weight of the vessel and sufficient elasticity to quench vibrations. The main advantage of this material is its high wear resistance and ability to withstand significant mechanical stress without deformation.
Classical rubber, however, has its own operating specifications: Over time, under the influence of ultraviolet light and temperature changes, the material can tan and lose its shock-absorbing properties. In winter, if the trailer is stored outdoors, such padding becomes especially rigid, which requires caution when loading the ice hull of the vessel. However, when properly maintained, they last for years, providing reliable fixation.
It's worth noting that quality rubber is inert to most of the chemicals found in water bodies, whether fresh water or salty sea waves, it doesn't absorb moisture or contribute to corrosion in the areas of contact with metal of the trailer frame, if the design is done correctly. For owners of metal boats, this is often a deciding factor in the choice.
- πΉ High strength and resistance to tears in contact with sharp elements of the body.
- πΉ Excellent damping ability, dampening the road vibration.
- πΉ Affordable price and ease of replacing individual sections in case of damage.
- πΉ The possibility of operation in a wide temperature range.
When buying rubber sponges, pay attention to the presence of EPDM markings β such rubber is best resists aging from the sun and ozone.
Plastic and polyurethane coatings: a modern alternative
In recent years, the market is actively gaining popularity. plastic-paste These materials are often rigid, with a softer polymer layer applied, which allows for sliding, and the main advantage of these solutions is that they can greatly facilitate the process of launching and lifting a boat ashore, especially when using a winch. A smooth surface minimizes friction, which is especially true for heavy boats.
It's important to understand the difference between cheap plastic and quality polyurethane. Cheap plastic linings can be too rigid and when sand or abrasive is hit between the lodging and the case, act like sandpaper, mercilessly erasing paint or gelcoat. Polyurethane analogues are deprived of this drawback, since they have a certain degree of elasticity and "envelop" small particles of dirt, not allowing them to scratch the board.
β οΈ Note: Never use plastic lodgings to transport soft or sensitively coated boats (such as some types of epoxy varnishes) without first checking the compatibility of the materials, as a chemical reaction or melting is possible.
Another important aspect is thermal expansion: Plastic has a higher thermal expansion coefficient than the metal of the trailer frame; on hot summer days, this can lead to a change in the geometry of the supports, which in theory can weaken the vessel's fixation if the gaps were calculated sideways, but modern engineering solutions successfully compensate for this disadvantage.
Keel rollers: specificity of material and design
Special attention deserves keel-rollerThe materials used to make them are the same, rubber or polyurethane, but the design dictates its requirements. Rubber keel rollers tend to have a metal core, which ensures their rigidity, but creates the risk of damage to the transom when loaded non-repeatedly if the metal is exposed.
Polyurethane rollers are often made whole or with a plastic sleeve inside, and their key feature is the ability to lubricate itself when in contact with water, which makes it easier for the boat to get off. But remember, the roller material must be matched to the weight of the boat. A too soft roller under a heavy boat will quickly lose shape and turn into a pancake, no longer fulfilling its function.
When choosing a material for the keel roller, you should also consider the type of bottom of the reservoir from which you most often descend. For sandy beaches, smoother and hard surfaces that are less stuffed with sand are preferred. For rocky or shell-like descents, softer and viscous rubber is better, which can bend the bumps without damaging the boat's keel.
- πΈ Rubber rollers are better absorbing impacts on the concrete ramp when loading.
- πΈ Polyurethane rollers provide easier boat ride when pulled by a winch.
- πΈ It is important to regularly check the condition of bearings or bushings inside the roller.
- πΈ Replacing the roller material can drastically change the behavior of the boat on the trailer.
Why are rollers creaking?
Motion screeching is most often caused by the lubricant drying in the sleeve or bearing, and by the sand falling between the axis and the inner diameter of the roller. Rubber rollers can creak when the material itself is dry, whereas polyurethane is usually silent.
Comparative table of material specifications
To organize the information and help you make your final choice, we have developed a comparison table that highlights the key parameters to consider when buying or replacing pawns. Remember, there is no perfect material, there is only the best choice for your specific operating conditions.
| Characterization | Hard rubber | Polyurethane/Plastic | Combined |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wear resistance | High. | Very high. | Medium |
| Protection of the hull | Excellent (soft contact) | Good (risk in the sand) | Depends on the layer. |
| Sliding (descent) | Medium (requires lubrication) | High (light descent) | Average |
| Resistance to UV | Medium (requires care) | High. | High. |
| Cost | Budgetary | Above average | Medium |
Analyzing the data from the table, it can be seen that polyurethane While it is a win-win for durability and slipper, it is a loser in price and nuance of protection against abrasives, rubber remains the middle ground for most amateurs who value predictability and softness of contact. Combined options often try to combine the advantages, but can inherit the disadvantages of both worlds.
Also, you should consider that the table shows the averages: the real properties of a particular product depend on the production technology, the quality of the raw materials and the availability of protective additives in the material. Cheap polyurethane can be worse than expensive rubber, so the brand and reviews play a role here.
Effects of climate and storage conditions on material
Climatic conditions play a huge role in the service life of any materials used in shipbuilding and trailer production. Ultraviolet radiation It's the main enemy of most polymers and rubber, and when the sun comes in, it loses its plasticizers, it becomes brittle, it starts to crumble, which is why the pawns left on the trailer in the scorching sun all season without a boat break down faster.
Temperature changes also make their own adjustments: In a sharply continental climate, where the day can be +30 Β°C and at night +5 Β°C, materials constantly expand and contract, which leads to microcracks in the structure, especially if the material has already begun to age. Rubber products in such conditions can crack across the fibers, which will sharply reduce their load-bearing capacity.
βοΈ Care for lodgings in the offseason
Humidity and salt water are another factor in aggression. Although the materials of the lodgings themselves are usually moisture resistant, being in the water can lead to moisture accumulation in the pores of the material (if it is not closed-mesh) or the development of mold. Mold not only looks ugly, but also creates a slippery, sometimes sticky surface that can unevenly distribute the load on the boat hull.
β οΈ Warning: After each operation in salt water, be sure to wash the lodgings with fresh water. salt crystals, when dried, work as an abrasive and can damage the pad coating and then the boat hull when vibrating.
Maintenance and replacement of worn-out elements
Regularly inspecting the condition of the pads should be part of your ritual of preparing for the season and preserving it after it. Visually assess the surface for deep cuts, cracks and detachments. If you notice that the rubber has become sticky to the touch or, conversely, crumbles when touching - this is a sure sign that material It is exhausted and replacement is required.
Replacing the paddings is a simple process, but requires attention to detail. Often fastening bolts are attached to the metal of the trailer frame due to corrosion. Before trying to unscrew them, it is recommended to treat the joints with penetrating lubricant (for example, WD-40) and give it time to work. The threads of new elements are better treated immediately with anticort or use stainless steel bolts.
When installing new paddings, it is important not to overtax the fastener. Excessive force can deform the soft material, creating unnecessary stress that will lead to rapid destruction. The fastening should be reliable, but not "crushed." Also make sure that all sections are installed in the same plane so that the load on the boat hull is distributed evenly.
- π οΈ Use a dynamometer key to tighten the bolts accurately if possible.
- π οΈ Lubricate the thread with graphite lubricant to facilitate future dismantling.
- π οΈ Check the condition of metal areas under the beds for rust.
- π οΈ Do not use a sealant between the couch and the metal unless it is provided by the design.
Timely replacement of worn-out beds is much cheaper than repairing a broken or scratched boat hull.
In conclusion, the choice of material for pawns is a balance between price, ease of use and care for the boat. There is no point in putting expensive polyurethane on an old trailer that will soon go to scrap, as well as it is dangerous to put a heavy boat on shrivelled wooden bars or cracked rubber. A weighted approach will prolong the life of both your trailer and your boat.
Can we paint the beds?
Technically, you can, but it doesn't make sense. It doesn't stick to flexible rubber or polyurethane, and it will quickly peel off to become an abrasive crumb, and if color is important, buy ready-made color inserts or use removable covers.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How often should I change the sleeves on the trailer?
The life of the polyurethane is dependent on the material and storage conditions. Rubber lodgings average 3-5 years of active use. Polyurethane can last up to 7-10 years. However, they need to be changed not by calendar, but by condition: if cracks, stickiness or loss of shape, replacement is required.
Can I use oil to make the stains better?
It is not recommended to use conventional machine oils, as they can break the rubber structure and attract dust. To improve the slip, it is better to use special silicone lubricants or simply wet the surface with water before descent. Some owners use a soap solution.
Which is better for an PVC inflatable boat: rubber or plastic?
For PVC boats it is strongly recommended to use only soft rubber Hard plastic or polyurethane with sand can easily damage cylinders, and the main rule is maximum softness of contact.
Why is the rubber on the beds blackening?
Rubber blackening is a natural process of oxidizing and releasing technical oils to the surface under the influence of sun and heat. It's not always a sign of spoilage, but if rubber becomes sticky and gets dirty on the hands, its properties are impaired and it needs to be replaced.