The PVC inflatable boat has long since ceased to be just a means for short walks off the coast and has become a full-fledged floating tool for avid fishermen and hunters. However, unlike heavy metal boats, the light vessel has high sailing and low inertia, which makes it extremely vulnerable to wind and current. rubber-boat anchor It is not just an accessory, but a critical element of safety and comfort.
Many beginners make the mistake of relying on random weights like sandbags or old car wheels, not understanding the physics of the retention process. A mismatched device can not only not keep the boat at the right point, but also damage the cylinders when climbing or create a dangerous situation when a sharp jerk. In this article, we will examine all the nuances of choosing, calculating weight and installing the anchor system correctly.
A sound anchoring requires a variety of factors, from the depth of the reservoir and the type of bottom to the design of the boat itself and the availability of the motor, and we'll look at the different types of anchors, their advantages and disadvantages, and we'll look at popular anchoring schemes that will allow you to stay in place even when the wind is amplified.
Calculation of the required weight of anchor for a PVC boat
The first thing that an inflatable boat owner encounters is the weight of the restraint. It is a common misconception that a light boat requires a very small load, but the general rule is that the anchor weight should be approximately 10% of the boat's carrying capacity, or 1/10 of the total weight of the crewed boat. For a standard two-seater boat, this usually means a weight in the range of 3-5 kg.
However, blindly following interest can lead to errors if you do not take into account sailability Inflatable boards create a significant area of resistance to the wind, and in a strong side wind, even a heavy anchor can begin to drag the boat along the bottom with a drag. retaining-ratewhich is capable of being buried in the ground.
Also worth remembering is the strength of the transom and the anchors. An anchor that is too heavy, especially when combined with a long phala in deep water, puts a tremendous strain on the stern when you climb. If you plan to fish at depths greater than 5-6 meters, using a classic heavy anchor becomes dangerous, and special designs come to the rescue.
To make an accurate calculation, you can use an empirical formula that takes into account not only the weight of the boat, but also external factors. If you often go out into open water or large reservoirs where the excitement is stronger, you better take a margin by weight or choose a more tenacious design.
Types of anchors for inflatable vessels
The market offers many solutions, but not all of them are suitable for delicate surface PVC. The main requirements for anchor for an inflatable boat is the absence of sharp edges that can pierce the balloon, and compactness for easy transportation.
The most common option is cat anchorIt's a folding structure with four or two legs, which takes up minimal space when folded, and its main advantage is its versatility: it holds well on a rocky, grassy or scalding bottom, but cats have a serious drawback: they often get stuck between rocks or in driftwood.
The second popular type is anchor They're flat structures with long spindles and wide legs that burrow into the ground, and they have excellent holding power at low weight, but they require a long stretch of clean bottom to accelerate and bury, and on a rocky bottom, their effectiveness drops dramatically.
- πͺ Cat anchor: It is ideal for rocky bottom and thickets, easy to fold, but can get stuck.
- β Danforth anchor: perfectly holds on sand and silt, compact, but useless on a hard clay or rocky bottom.
- π§± Cargo iron: The simplest option, which simply presses with mass, is good on the trough, but has low efficiency on the flow.
- βοΈ Pyramid anchor: The specific shape for the muddy bottom rarely gets stuck, but requires accurate weight calculation.
It is worth mentioning separately. drag They are often the best choice for inflatable boats, because they are easier to snatch off the hook by simply changing the angle of thrust, which saves both the anchor and the boat from loss.
The problem of hooks and the method of "Anchor Room"
The biggest problem with PVC anchoring is the risk of losing anchor or even turning the boat over when trying to get rid of the hook. The classic method of back-to-back lifting often causes the legs to get stuck in rocks or roots. anchor (Ring) located at the top of the anchor.
The idea is that the thack is not attached to the main loop on the spindle, but to the ring at the end of the anchor, through which an additional cable (buerkelin) is passed. In normal mode, the anchor holds at the expense of the main mount. If the anchor is stuck, you pull the burrock, and the anchor turns upside down, slipping out of the hook.
β οΈ Attention: Never tie the thunder directly to the bow ring of a boat without using an anchor ditch or a detachment device. In high winds or currents, a sharp jerk of a stuck anchor can pierce the side or flip a lightweight inflatable boat.
There are two ways to do this: one is to buy an anchor with an already built-in detachment mechanism; the other is to make a temporary connection yourself using a metal ring and an extra cord, which requires minimal skills, but ensures that expensive equipment is safe.
To install a riddle on an ordinary cat, it is often enough to drill a hole in the upper part of the spindle (if the design allows) or use special adapters that are worn on the neck of the anchor. The main thing is to make sure that the connection is reliable and does not rub the rift.
The mounting of the anchor: Nose or Feed?
The question, "Where do you anchor, bow or stern?" is one of the most controversial questions among water-engineers. The answer depends on the operating conditions and design of the boat. The classic maritime tradition is that the anchor is attached strictly to the stern. noseThis ensures the stability of the vessel against the wave and wind, preventing onboard swing, which is dangerous for narrow boats.
Fishers often prefer to anchor with feedThis is because many PVC boats have a motor mounted on a transom, and the angler sits with his back to the motor, facing the direction of the drift, and when the stern anchor is turned upside down, which is convenient for catching the coastal zone, but there is a risk of flooding the waves through the side if the excitement goes to the side.
For maximum safety on the wave, use two anchors: one from the bow, the other from the stern, which will lock the boat in one position and eliminate onboard swing.
If you choose a stern mount, make sure the phala passes through a special duck or rum on a transom, rather than being thrown over the side. Friction of the rope against the inflatable side can quickly cause it to be rubbed or damaged. Use squirt Ducks or ducks are a prerequisite for safe feed anchoring.
In high winds or currents, the best strategy is a combined one anchor from the bow and one from the stern (or using an anchored snag with a stretch) that allows the boat to be rigidly fixed, especially when fishing at night or waiting for the fish to approach at a particular point.
Choice of anchor tile and storage organization
The phalt itself is an equally important element of the system. Inflatable boat chains are strongly discouraged because of their weight and the danger of PVC damage. The optimal material is a polyamide (nylon) or polypropylene cord. Nylon is good for its elasticity, it extinguishes jerks but sinks. Polypropylene swims, which is convenient, but it is less durable and more violent.
The diameter of the phala should be consistent with the load. PVC boats usually use a cord with a diameter of 4-6 mm. The thinner will cut the hands, and the thicker will take up a lot of space in the box. The length of the phala should exceed the maximum depth at the fishing site by 3-4 times. This is necessary to create the correct angle of thrust, so that the anchor is buried, and not pulled up.
| Type of bottom | Recommended type of anchor | Features of attachment |
|---|---|---|
| Sand, silt | Danforth, Pyramid | It takes a long run to get the scoring. |
| Stone, shell. | Cat, Drag. | Mandatory uncoupling mechanism |
| Grass, algae | Cat (multiplegged) | The anchor must penetrate the layer of grass to the ground. |
| Snag | Cargo iron, Drag | Minimum number of speakers |
The best way to keep the anchor and the falters is in a separate sealer or a special box, and the sand and silt that gets inside the boat quickly turn into abrasive porridge that spoils the floor and clothes, and a wet anchor can damage the fabric if it lies just on the bottom of the boat without packaging.
βοΈ Checking the anchor system before exit
Safety Techniques and Frequent Errors
Using an anchor on a light inflatable boat carries risks that must not be forgotten: the main mistake is tying the thalf to the arm or leg. In a sharp jerk (for example, if the anchor is caught and the boat carries the current), this can lead to serious injuries or even drowning.
Another common mistake is to use a too short phala. As mentioned, the angle of thrust should be sharp. If you anchor at a depth of 2 meters with just 3 meters of rope, the anchor will simply drag along the bottom or fly out of the ground at the slightest change in wind.
β οΈ Attention: Never let an anchor go without first tying a buoy or fastening a flounder to it, and losing an anchor at the depth is not only a financial loss, but also a potential environmental problem, as well as a risk to other boats.
It is also worth monitoring the condition. fixation The bolts can be unwinded over time by vibration and loading, regularly check the nuts and the condition of the fabric around the mounts, and if you notice that the fabric around the rimp has begun to whiten or deform, you should stop operating before repair.
So in conclusion, the right anchor is the balance between weight, holding power and safety. Don't chase super-heavy specimens if you're cruising in shallow water, but don't skimp on reliability if you're planning to go out into big water.
What if the anchor is still stuck?
If standard methods (boat trips, jerks) don't work, and you don't have a detachment mechanism, you can try this: tie a heavy object to the phala (like a second anchor or cargo) and, on the opposite side, pull the load along the phala to the bottom. A sharp thrust with the phala down and side can help break the anchor. If this doesn't work, you'll have to dive or put up with loss.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Can a car disc be used as an anchor for a PVC boat?
Technically possible, but not recommended. The car disc has sharp edges that will easily damage cylinders when handled repeatedly, and the disc has a low holding power on soft ground, and it only works as a load. It is better to use a specialized iron anchor with melted edges.
How long should an anchor shaft be for a depth of 5 meters?
For an anchor to work efficiently, the tile must be 3-4 depths. For 5 meters, this means 15-20 meters of rope. Using a shorter tile will cause the anchor to be pulled upwards by wind and current.
Do I need to lubricate the metal anchor before storage?
Yes, metal anchors (especially steel cats) are susceptible to corrosion, and after each foray they must be thoroughly washed with fresh water, dried and lubricated with engine oil or special lubrication, which will prolong their life and prevent rusting that can stain the boat and clothes.
Why doesn't the anchor keep the boat flowing?
There may be several reasons: insufficient weight of the anchor, the wrong type of bottom (for example, smooth clay where the anchor slides), too short a phala or improper design of the anchor. Try to increase the length of the phala or replace the anchor with a model with a larger paw area.
Water safety starts with the right equipment choice: donβt skimp on the anchor system, as it is your guarantor of parking in stormy weather.